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Thread: Valom Fokker D.VII 1/144 kit

  1. #1

    Captain Knowitall's Avatar
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    Daniel
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    Default Valom Fokker D.VII 1/144 kit

    I got a Valom Fokker D.VII plastic and brass kit.
    What is the trick to putting this together?
    The plastic parts I have no problem with.
    The brass parts however...
    With this kit, I am going to swear off doing any more of these types of kits.
    I'm going thru fine super glue tips like I have my own factory, and now it looks like I will have to own stock in the replacement super glue bottle nozzle caps too.

    What is the damn trick to these?
    Some of the brass parts make no sense as to why they made them brass in the first place. Just damn stupid.

  2. #2

    Blucher
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    I'm working on the same kits. I agree about the brass I even bought some plastic rod to replace them but ended up using brass rod that I can cut to length and are more solid.

    So far I've kept the outer "N" struts but replaced the inner struts (wing to fuselage) with the brass rod. I found the Valom originals fiddly and just baffling how to fit them (some seemed too short).

    I drilled holes in the wing and fuselage (preferably before attaching any wings) to fit the rod securely. Drill through the wing from the underside out (as there are small guide holes there already) at the approximate angle required to hit the point on the fuselage where they should go. Valom don't give any real guidance in the instructions nor are there any obvious attachment points on the model so it's vital to have reference photos as your'e doing this. I've done this on a couple of the struts and it's given a very solid construction, the remaining struts are glued in place more for show than strength. I've then filled in any holes on the wing and fuselage and filed smooth.

    In terms of gluing, the nozzles on glue bottles are too big so I blob some super glue on a surface of some sort and use a carved down matchstick to apply the glue exactly where required. Then let it dry completely so I've got a chance it'll be solid.

    I've tried to attach some photos of my progress so far but failed!!

    I think in the end they'll be nice models they are a pain but I quite like the challenge, as long as I can overcome it. I've ordered some Red Eagle models, including a D VII to see how they compare. If I work out how to attach photos I'll try and do a comparison of the two.

  3. #3

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    Everybody I have ever spoken to about these Valom Kits has never had a good word about the etched brass bits. Probably the only people who think they are a good idea is Valom. They are a complete nightmare!
    Last edited by Rebel; 09-03-2018 at 02:23. Reason: Spelling correction

  4. #4

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    Quote Originally Posted by Rebel View Post
    Everybody I have ever spoken to about these Valom Kits has never had a good word about the etched brass bits. Probably the only people who think they are a good idea is Valom. They are a complete nightmare!
    Nonsense! I spoke to you about the Valom kits a couple of times.

    I have VERY good things to say about the Valom Kits brass!!!!
    It is far stronger than plastic rod, doesn't snap in half when you cut it, doesn't bend easily, and has the necessary flat cross-section to allow the cabane struts to fit snugly against the fuselage.
    The 'N' struts secure and hold the top wing in place without any NEED for the cabane struts (though, obviously, they need to be added for appearances sake).

    I have seen the exact same Phobia with PE parts for 1/700 scale warships - most people don't like them because they are DIFFERENT, and are afraid of using them.

    My 4 Valoms have turned out beautifully, and I have posted details of the builds twice, yet we still get thread after thread after thread after thread after thread maligning the kits.
    I laugh in the face of danger - then I hide until it goes away!

  5. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by Flying Helmut View Post
    Nonsense! I spoke to you about the Valom kits a couple of times.

    I have VERY good things to say about the Valom Kits brass!!!!
    It is far stronger than plastic rod, doesn't snap in half when you cut it, doesn't bend easily, and has the necessary flat cross-section to allow the cabane struts to fit snugly against the fuselage.
    The 'N' struts secure and hold the top wing in place without any NEED for the cabane struts (though, obviously, they need to be added for appearances sake).

    I have seen the exact same Phobia with PE parts for 1/700 scale warships - most people don't like them because they are DIFFERENT, and are afraid of using them.

    My 4 Valoms have turned out beautifully, and I have posted details of the builds twice, yet we still get thread after thread after thread after thread after thread maligning the kits.
    Sorry Tim but I do not remember speaking to you about the Valom kits. I'm glad that you do not have the problems that so many others do!

  6. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by Rebel View Post
    Sorry Tim but I do not remember speaking to you about the Valom kits. I'm glad that you do not have the problems that so many others do!
    That's OK mate!

    I don't even remember building the first two!!!! Guess I'm getting old.............
    I laugh in the face of danger - then I hide until it goes away!

  7. #7

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    I use paper clips for all my Valom struts and undercarts. I find it structurally much more sound.
    Rob.
    "Courage is the art of being the only one who knows you're scared to death."

  8. #8

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    Quote Originally Posted by Flying Helmut View Post
    That's OK mate!

    I don't even remember building the first two!!!! Guess I'm getting old.............
    Aren't we all?

  9. #9

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    The Valom kits can turn out an excellent model, but it does demand a few things:
    Assume you will need to hand fit all parts. Test fit frequently and keep your needle files and sandpaper handy.
    Develop your own jig. The strut to wing placement is critical, support your model such that it will remain in place at the correct angle and use an acc glue that dries slowly enough to allow time for adjustments.
    Apply your acc with a pin or needle. A tiny drop to hold it, a second, later, to secure it.
    Do all your struts with the plane upside down. Your large outboard struts first, inboard struts last.
    Use a pinvise drill to enlarge the attach points in wings and fuselage. And don't assume they're in the right place. Test fit and drill your own if need be.

    That has worked for me. Your results may vary ;-)

  10. #10

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    Hi Daniel I'm building 4 of the DVII's as we speak. I have found that cheap superglue will "tack" the struts in place and then I use quick drying araldite applied with a cocktail stick around the joint, this holds it together strongly, I am aiming for a sound structure and so have blobs of glue around the joint but I'm happy with that, others may not be.

    As Tim said if you do the N struts first they hold the top wing in place firmly enough and the cabane struts are added later and provide a lot of extra strength. The N struts for the DVII make them much easier than individual struts. I've made Rumplers, Nieuports and Pups but with those I did replace the brass with wire because I was able to get a better initial glue join with the wire section than the flat etch brass, but I still used the brass for the cabane struts.

    I haven't found a good way to do the undercarriage but somewhere F.O.Kite did a tutorial for a metal kit and I followed his method. Funnily enough I signed on the look for it to finish my kits because I forgot how he did it.
    Off to look now.
    Cheers

  11. #11

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    i recently completed assembly of a pair of se5s (i was bribed with keeping one by my friend tom who took one look at the kit and forswore doing it [and i cant say as a blame him!!]) and ill never do another one. i had no end of trouble. for instance the foster mount for the lewis gun was about the thickness of 2 human hairs. i ended up replacing many of the brass bits with paperclips cut and bent to spec. the only thing ill ad is, for the undercarriage i made a template for the correct angle by making a trapezoid of the fuselage width, the crossmember width, and the height of the landing gear struts. it didnt come out perfect, but it helped.

  12. #12

    CarolusMagnus
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    I had similar problems building Valom kits (Fokker DVII, Albatros DV and SE5a so far). There are no clues where to put the struts and they wont stay in place. The SE5a was espacially difficult because it has single struts without connections. Building them was a nightmare. But worst of all, even after you finish them a drop from 50cm is enough to make them explode into little pieces. Does anybody have an idea how one could strengthen the connections between the struts and wings / landing gear? I fear playing with them will ulitmately result in damaging them and loosing parts.

  13. #13

    Karo7's Avatar
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    What about heating up the brass parts and pressing them in the marked holes for stability?

  14. #14

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    Not something I would recommend the way plastic shrinks away from heat and distorts.
    Rob.
    "Courage is the art of being the only one who knows you're scared to death."

  15. #15

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    Quote Originally Posted by CarolusMagnus View Post
    Does anybody have an idea how one could strengthen the connections between the struts and wings / landing gear?.
    Don't Use Superglue!

    Use an epoxy resin, like Araldite or EvoStik - these have enough "gooey flexibility" to act as shock absorbers, and will not produce the 'explosion' if the model is dropped.

    Superglue (CR glue Crazy Glue etc) forms an instant, strong but BRITTLE bond; it will withstand a shock perpendicular to the plane of the joint, but an impact at anything other than 90 degrees will cause it to fracture, and shear across the joint plane, resulting in the 'explosion'.

    Some folks, myself included, like to build-in a shock absorber to the landing gear - glue all the struts and axle with Araldite, then glue the wheels on with Superglue; if the model is dropped on it's undercarriage, the wheels WILL break off, but the energy absorbed in this breakage will preserve the undercarriage 'cage'.
    Simply glue the wheels back on to reset.
    I laugh in the face of danger - then I hide until it goes away!

  16. #16

    CarolusMagnus
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    Thanks Flying Helmut, I will definitely try that!



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