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Thread: How to Put Decals On

  1. #1

    Default How to Put Decals On

    If you are wondering how to put decals on, this is how to put decals on.

    -First, ready your airplane in a good position to put the decal on,
    -Second, soak the decal in warm water for ten seconds,
    -Next, take decal off of sheet, and place on airplane in the position that you want it,
    -Finally hold decal on for about a minute,

    After that your decal should be stuck on.

    Hint- put the decal on using tweezers then you can get a better grip on it that using your fingers.
    Last edited by Future Pilot; 02-24-2018 at 16:49.

  2. #2

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    I use a similar method

    First prep the area the decal will be placed on, some paint a gloss varnish on first to stop the sheen of the decal. You can also use Micro Set solution as a prep and paint over the area the decal will go.
    Place the decal in water, some prefer warm, I use cold. Leave it to soak until it moves on the backing sheet, you can test this with a paint brush.
    Place the decal on its backing close to where you want the decal then use a wet paintbrush and slide into place, if out of alignment wet the brush and apply to decal so it moves again and adjust the position.
    Once in place dab with a tissue to remove excess water.
    Next use another brush and cover the decal with MicroSol, this will melt the decal onto the model. Leave to dry.
    Varnish with your taste, gloss , silk or matt.

  3. #3

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    Gloss varnish the area to receive the decal (protects the paint, and gives a glassy-smooth surface to help the decal slide around into the correct location)

    Place decal on a sheet of wet blotting paper (the decal will "free-up", as if in water, but will not slip off and sink to the bottom of your water cup! No Decal Fishing!!!!)

    Microset the smooth receiving area on the model

    Use a Microset-wet paintbrush to slide the decal off the backing sheet, then push the decal around on the model until happy with the position.

    Use the corner of a tissue to soak off excess Microset.

    When dry, Microsol the decal with a small paintbrush (the decal will conform to all ridges, troughs and bumps on the model)

    When dry, Microsol again.

    When dry, apply a layer of Gloss varnish (this is tough and durable - should Matt varnish wear away over time, the exposed decal will crack and peel)

    When dry, apply the varnish of your choice for the desired finish (if Matt, apply TWICE)
    I laugh in the face of danger - then I hide until it goes away!

  4. #4

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    Quote Originally Posted by Flying Helmut View Post
    Place decal on a sheet of wet blotting paper (the decal will "free-up", as if in water, but will not slip off and sink to the bottom of your water cup! No Decal Fishing!!!!)
    Is blotting paper a specific product, or can any good, thick paper towel paper work?
    Karl
    It is impossible for a man to begin to learn what he thinks he knows. -- Epictetus

  5. #5

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    Thick absorbent paper towel should work just as well.
    I laugh in the face of danger - then I hide until it goes away!

  6. #6

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    ​It works that's what I used.

  7. #7

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    Also, it is a good idea to only work with one decal at a time. Decals will get very soft if they stay wet too long, causing them to tear, stretch or distort in some fashion.

  8. #8

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    Aesthetically, I'm not a fan of the look where the decals are glossy and the rest of the wing or plane is not. So... for British planes, where a glossy dope was frequently used historically, after the decal is fully dry, I tend to overspray the entire plane with a glossy spray overcoat. I think the German planes were less glossy, so I'll overspray with a matte spray instead. Of if you're looking for something in between, a satin overspray will do.

    Not only does it protect the decal but the paint job as well.

    Beware that some decals will melt and distort under a heavy dose of paint-on or sprayed-on varnish, so go easy on the first coat after the decals are placed.

  9. #9

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    My way of applying decals is as follows:

    - Carefully cut out a single decal. Be sure to cut away the little numbers near the decal - they could stick to the decal and cause troubles.
    - Let the decal soak with water. The appropriate time depends on the individual sheet. My Valom E.III needed exactly 15 seconds. The D.V ones needed over 50 seconds. I use a flat plate with just enough water to cover the decal to avoid „decal fishing“. Vinegar can be added to the water to soften the decal film further.
    - Make the area where the decal should be placed wet with water. I use a drop of water on my fingertip for this step.
    - Use tweezers to take the decal paper out of the water. Shed away any water on the decal, as too much water let the decal slide away from its position.
    - Slide the decal with the help of toothpick off the paper and place it on the desired position.
    - Carefully soak off any water with the help of a paper towel.
    - If the position have to be arranged, but the decal tends to stick on the surface - use water to reposition the decal.
    - Apply Revell Decal Soft with the integrated brush on the whole decal.
    - Press the decal With gently pushes from the center to the boarders with the help of a big soft brush on the surface and in the recesses of the model. The decal soft liquid will vapour away during this treatment.
    - Apply a coat of semi gloss spray varnish and let the model dry for 72 hours in a dust free environment.

  10. #10

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    Just as a matter of interest, what gloss varnish is everyone using? I'm currently using Xtracrylix from Hannants, but the finish isn't that great.
    Run for your life - there are stupid people everywhere!

  11. #11

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    I use Vallejo, for Gloss, Matt and Satin.
    All brush-on.

    Every one of my spray varnish experiences has been bad/catastrophic, so never again!
    I laugh in the face of danger - then I hide until it goes away!

  12. #12

    matt56's Avatar May you forever fly in blue skies.
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    I use Testor's Dullcote and Glosscote, straight from the spray can - I rarely have problems at all with these products.

    All the best,
    Matt

  13. #13

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    I am looking for a little clarification on the clear gloss.

    Should I be using the Vallejo acrylic or polyurethane if I go for a brush application?

    Is the acrylic clear gloss as durable as the polyurethane (assuming polyurethane is ok to use, that is)?

    What is the base of the Testors spray products mentioned.

    Sorry to be a stickler, but I have had a couple of bad experiences with spray products that make me nervous. This summer I bought a can of Krylon ultra flat gray primer. I had primed 26 AIM planes with it before I noticed that all I had to do was lightly scratch the model and it came right off. I had done all the right stuff as the ones 9 did with other primers were fine. These will be a nightmare to clean and re-do.... Then today, I did a test spray with some Rust-Oleum Painter’s Touch clear spray on a model I had no use for and I dried with a mottled texture. I have some planes I put a lot of time into painting and decaling, and don’t want to ruin them at this point!

    Thanks guys!

  14. #14

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    I use the Vallejo Acrylic, because I don't know any better!

    I have previously (years ago) used polyurethane for varnishing figures (not planes).
    When opening the box a couple of years later, I found that the varnish had noticeably "yellowed" so I never used it again.
    I laugh in the face of danger - then I hide until it goes away!

  15. #15

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    Sorry to resurrect this thread, but I haven't applied decals in decades. i have followed Flying Helmet's directions and my model looks good.

    Question, I assume one can apply a decal over top of another decal, i.e. German crosses over lozenge. Is the second decal applied after the first is varnished?
    So how many books are in your personal library?

  16. #16

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    Quote Originally Posted by RJG173 View Post
    Sorry to resurrect this thread, but I haven't applied decals in decades. i have followed Flying Helmet's directions and my model looks good.

    Question, I assume one can apply a decal over top of another decal, i.e. German crosses over lozenge. Is the second decal applied after the first is varnished?
    That seriously depends on the model and the decal. If the decal is very thin, anything underneath could show through. If you think the decal is thick enough, and the surface is very smooth (not matt finished), it should be OK.

    If you don't have a smooth finish for the decal to sit upon, you will get "frosting" from the clear parts of the decal, and a less than satisfactory appearance afterwards. A small amount of gloss clear should be applied if you are not sure. Then, the decal will have a smooth surface with which to adhere.

    Once the decal is dry, apply a coat of matt or satin clear to get rid of the shiny spots from the gloss undercoat and the decal.

    PS: Thin decal issues: What's on Your Workbench for August (2013) - Post #91

    PPS: Hmmm... Also, if you are talking about a lozenge decal you have already applied, but are now putting crosses over the lozenge decal, that depends, too. Thickness of decal does matter, again. The same link example above showed me having to put a white basecoat over the lozenge decal, because the cross decal didn't have any white. Darn. Not the best job ever, as I didn't use a mask to keep the white from extending past the cross decal, and I had to try and overpaint the white with something like the lozenge colors underneath.
    Last edited by OldGuy59; 01-25-2020 at 23:13.
    Mike
    "Flying is learning to throw yourself at the ground and miss" Douglas Adams
    "Wings of Glory won't skin your elbows and knees while practicing." OldGuy59

  17. #17

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    Quote Originally Posted by RJG173 View Post
    Sorry to resurrect this thread, but I haven't applied decals in decades. i have followed Flying Helmet's directions and my model looks good.

    Question, I assume one can apply a decal over top of another decal, i.e. German crosses over lozenge. Is the second decal applied after the first is varnished?
    For maximum "belt-and-braces" safety, yes, Gloss varnish the first decal before applying the second.
    Particularly if you have used Microsol on the first one - Microsol "welds" the decal into the furrows and troughs of the model, but does so by making the decal extremely fragile; if you so much as touch it when "Microsol-wet" the decal can self-destruct!

    It is possible to apply a second decal without fully prepping the first - examples would be the "Shed" decal system, where RAF roundels are provided in two parts; a plain white disc, then overlaid with a blue ring with a red dot centre. In such a case, if the area of application is fairly flat and smooth (a wing surface, for instance) then the second decal should be simple to apply over the first WITHOUT varnish (provided no Microsol or similar agent has been used on the first decal).

    As Mike said, placing German crosses over lozenge can lead to the lozenge pattern being faintly visible through the surrounding white of the cross.
    If you're happy to accept this, then press on! (The Germans often used thinned, poor quality paint, and many authentic aircraft paint schemes show previous markings appearing as shadowy shapes showing through on photographs)
    If you think you won't like this effect, then DO varnish the first decal (lozenge) before application of the cross. If you then need to remove the cross, you won't risk tearing up the lozenge beneath, since it's protected by the gloss varnish.
    I laugh in the face of danger - then I hide until it goes away!

  18. #18

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    Quote Originally Posted by OldGuy59 View Post


    PPS: The same link example above showed me having to put a white basecoat over the lozenge decal, because the cross decal didn't have any white. Darn. Not the best job ever, as I didn't use a mask to keep the white from extending past the cross decal, and I had to try and overpaint the white with something like the lozenge colors underneath.
    "Shed" Decals are an ideal answer to this problem - their German crosses come in two parts; a pure white cross, and a slightly smaller jet black cross, designed to overlay the white, leaving a thin white border (or white square, carrying a central black cross). Both sheets, white and black, are purchased together as a single item - you can choose to deploy the black cross as is, or with a white border as desired.
    <<"Shed Decals" are no longer trading, but some websites do still have limited stock>>
    I laugh in the face of danger - then I hide until it goes away!

  19. #19

    Mike C's Avatar
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    Could someone make this thread a sticky? This newbie found some very useful tips here.

    Also, does anyone have a tip on removal of decals? I purchased some airplane packs before I knew the difference between airplane and squadron packs. Now that I do, I'd like to remove some decals from some Bf 109 Ks and some P-47 Ds, and give these ships new identities.

    Thanks!

  20. #20

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    Can I ask if you all use the same methods for applying a lozenge to a whole wing?

  21. #21

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    Quote Originally Posted by Baz View Post
    Can I ask if you all use the same methods for applying a lozenge to a whole wing?
    I bet everyone has their own method!

    Mine is here :- https://www.wingsofwar.org/forums/sh...g-Thread/page4 Posts # 196 and # 198
    I laugh in the face of danger - then I hide until it goes away!

  22. #22

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    Quote Originally Posted by Flying Helmut View Post
    Gloss varnish the area to receive the decal (protects the paint, and gives a glassy-smooth surface to help the decal slide around into the correct location)

    Place decal on a sheet of wet blotting paper (the decal will "free-up", as if in water, but will not slip off and sink to the bottom of your water cup! No Decal Fishing!!!!)

    Microset the smooth receiving area on the model

    Use a Microset-wet paintbrush to slide the decal off the backing sheet, then push the decal around on the model until happy with the position.

    Use the corner of a tissue to soak off excess Microset.

    When dry, Microsol the decal with a small paintbrush (the decal will conform to all ridges, troughs and bumps on the model)

    When dry, Microsol again.

    When dry, apply a layer of Gloss varnish (this is tough and durable - should Matt varnish wear away over time, the exposed decal will crack and peel)

    When dry, apply the varnish of your choice for the desired finish (if Matt, apply TWICE)
    Having just finished about 33 aircraft in last 6 weeks or so, between your nailed-down decal instructions and the photo instructions on the Pfalz D.XII's, I really got the hang of it.
    Thankyou from a former decal stumblebum. I believe everything you need for WGF is in the Drome somewhere, thanks to people like yourself. If you can......find.....it.
    Thanks Tim, and cheers.

  23. #23

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike C View Post
    Could someone make this thread a sticky? This newbie found some very useful tips here.
    Agree wholeheartedly!

  24. #24

    Miscellaneous Miniatures
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    Quote Originally Posted by Baz View Post
    Can I ask if you all use the same methods for applying a lozenge to a whole wing?
    Yes. When working with larger decals, I find that I need to apply more decal setting solution to the model surface to make it easier to move the decal into it's final position.

    Can decals be applied over other decals? Yes, as mentioned above. If it's an older model getting additional decals, I recommend going through the process of applying a gloss coat over the old decals so that the surface is nice and smooth. If they're new decals being applied one on top of another, such as an aircraft code being applied over a roundel, I try to give the first decal enough time to set so that it doesn't move around when the second decal is being placed over top of it.

    Test fit and stress relief cuts (for lack of a better term). When preparing to apply decals near junctions or details, I try to test fit the decal to the final position before the decal is wet. It's much easier for me to make a little snip in the side of decal when it's dry than it is for me to figure out how to get it to sit correctly when it's wet and bunching up at the intersection of the rudder and elevator on a model.

  25. #25

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    One thing I like to do is work in sections. Do the top. Let it dry real well, and gloss coat it. Let the gloss cure. Then do the bottom and repeat the gloss coat. Do the left side, same procedure. The right side same procedure. Then finally any tail work. This way I don't damage or move any of my decals by accident while applying the others. It is time consuming, but not as frustrating then thinking you are done and then finding one of your decals messed up. Be very generous with the decal set. Too much can always be sucked up with a tissue. Too little and you may tear your decal while moving it.

  26. #26

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    I'm grateful this decal thread was revived. I've grabbed screen shots of all the methods and techniques. I have amassed a big collection of decals and small fleet of repaint donor planes. When I hit full retirement (7 months or so), the repaints shall begin! First I have to finish painting my damn zombies, then onto some Aliens Another Glorious Day in the Corps, then some WoG! Thanks Kevin, Tim, Dan and Burton!



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