A modelling Odyssey - 1/48 Gotha G.V
For those of you who are interested in old Aurora kits, WWI Bombers, use of decals, or just like these modeling DIYs, welcome.
I will be using this thread to document the slow and sporadic progress on my 1/48 Aurora Gotha G.V.
The 2015 Christmas holiday period allowed me to leap forward but much remains. Check in periodically to see how it is coming. I will continue to edit this post to keep it all in one place.
My primary focus in sharing will be on decals and rigging, as both of these go beyond what I have done before and what the kit requires. Enjoy!
1. The Kit: Aurora 1/48 Gotha G.V (mid 70's / final version). As recounted elsewhere, my Father was responsible for my fascination with WWI aircraft. He had been a model builder in his youth and when I was quite young he was building kits for display in a local hobby store. He had what seemed like every Aurora 1/48 kit including the massive Gotha G.V, molded in one of Aurora's distinctive if ahistorical colors, with the national insignia locations molded in. When I had the bug to find and build a kit in pseudo-tribute to his collection (like him, sadly, long departed), I went online to seek the mighty Gotha, which was obtained for a modest fee.
Unlike my Dad's kit, this was a later mold, in green, and with a textured surface (more on that later) to simulate canvas (?) but all of the other details were identical. As kits go it was good for its time, and still a large and adequate canvas for some careful preparation and presentation. I was not interested in replicating any exact prototype, but I knew I wanted a lozenge scheme, and to leverage the existing kit decals as they appeared to be in pristine conditions - still clear, clean, no yellowing at all. (More on that later as well.)
As to the lozenge, It was decision time. To paint or to decal? Having researched some other excellent Gotha builds online, and knowing my skills, patience, and preferences, I decided that decal was they way to go to satisfy my need for a clean look and to complete it within my lifetime. But where to obtain them in quantity adequate to the purpose? I recommend Microsculpt decals: http://www.microsculpt.com/
These decals are available in proper scale width strips so you can cover your aircraft in a prototypical fashion. They are also robust enough to allow for some repositioning, while thin enough to conform to the surface admirably (but not without limits - see below) when softened with Hobsco Solvaset (http://www.internettrains.com/mercha...AHOB&Featured=).
(Current progress photo - notice how the flat decals conformed to the compound curve nose of the Gotha - quite satisfactory!)
A model this size consumes a frightening amount of lozenge decal, at the time of this writing two sheets of Upper Surface, two sheets of lower surface, with a third sheet of Upper Surface on order to complete the top wing. Yes, I have far more invested in decal sheet than I do in the kit, by several x...... Also, do not discount the amount of time required to apply all of that. Each piece must be cut to fit and applied as described below. At the rsik of stating the obvious, the lozenge is applied before the major assemblies are ....assembled. Upper wings, lower wings, fuselage/empennage covered largely before final assembly for access and manipulation. Exceptions - tail section decalled after mating with the fuselage; underside of fuselage covered after mating to lower wing due to wing casting forming part of fuselage.
Surface preparation - what I did, and what I recommend.....
I sprayed the entire kit in a "canvas tan" using a Testors Modelmaster color. This gives a good clean surface for decals to adhere to. You'll note above that this era of Gotha had a textured surface. In retrospect, I would recommend a bit of sanding to smooth out some of that texture, with some 800 grit wetordry sandpaper, for a better finish and fewer problems later. Obviously, remove any extraneous mold marks, seam lines, etc. The old kit can look quite nice if you take the time to remove mold parting lines; tedious but rewarding. Immediately before applying decals, I use a brush to apply water, clean with a hankie, and reapply a little water to the surface, to aid in adhesion, and final positioning.
Applying the lozenge: Prepare your "bolt of lozenge fabric" by cutting away a single strip
and removing all border, leaving only the lozenge.
Carefully hold the strip in position on the (wing, fuselage, etc.) With a very sharp (or in my case, and engineers mechanical pencil) carefully trace the piece to be cut. With a very sharp exacto, trim the decal section to size as marked, leaving a small extra margin for the leading and trailing wing edges even on the scalloped portions.
NOTE: for more complex shapes like the now-assembled horizontal stabilizer / elevator, trim a paper template to size, and cut to match the template. Measure twice......etc.
Tools - a digression: As I describe my experience, successes and failures, in getting the decals to bend to my will, the following tools should be at the ready -
A good cutting mat. If you don't have one, get one.
An exacto knife or equivalent, and a fresh blade (I prefer Cut to Tear.....)
A good, finely pointed set of tweezers
Paint brushes (yes, for decals. I will explain): A Testors ModelMaster 8833 1/4' brush - this is used to preclean with water; to aid in positioning when fingers or tweezers cannot; to press water out from under the decal once positioned, and to smooth the decal and press out air bubbles once it has been "softened".
A second brush, for application of solvaset and conforming of softened decals to sharp curves and inside angles.
A clean white hankie (wrapped around a fingertip) for dabbing up any water that exceeds the ability of the above mentioned brush. To be used lightly and almost surgically...
APPLYING THE DECALS
1. Set your decal in water to soak. I leave these in perhaps a minute or two, then remove and let it "relax" on the mat off to the side, lest I forget and the decal slide off onto the water, losing its glue and any chance of being used.... Patience is key here.
2. Prewet the surface with the 1/4 brush. Just a thin film, not enough to form droplets.
3. The decal is ready when it can just be made to slide around on the paper backing with the lightest of finger persuasion. Slide it partly off the backing and align with the leading edge and the adjoining sheet of lozenge. Hold down with brush or finger and slide out the backing.
4. It almost never goes exactly where you want, and the upper surface adheres to your finger much better than it will stick to the model at this point. Using the brush, "paint" the decal in the direction it needs to go. If that fails, gently rub it with your finger. If that fails, pick up and edge CAREFULLY with your tweezers and lift the decal until it can be moved, and lay it down closer to the desired position. Repeat as necessary.
5. Once in position, begin to brush out the water with the 1/4 brush, removing excess, bubbles, etc. Do a final dab with the hankie.
6. Using brush #2, dip into the solvaset and apply to that extra bit you left on the leading and training edges as appropriate. Use the brush to "paint" the decal around the edges as it softens until it adheres to the edge. Don't rub too hard, as it will tear the film. Just guide it.
7. Apply solvaset lightly to the remaining surface area. Use the 1/4 brush to gently smooth and remove any air bubbles, "painting" them toward the edge and out from under the film.
8. Walk away for few minutes, come back and take a second look. Brush out any additional bubbles with the 1/4 brush as needed.
PANEL LINES - Where panel lines are to wide and deep for the decal to conform (think aileron hinges), once the decal has smoother out but not entirely dried, use that Sharp exacto to cut the decal along the hinge line. Sparingly apply solvaset to the panel line and immediately begin to use the end (tip) of the 1/4 brush to push the decal down into the recess.
Follow this by a gentle "painting" of the panel line with the long edge of the brush to smooth it out. They should settle down nicely into the panel line.
TROUBLE IN PARADISE:
A few cautions, and I hope, solutions:
Here are some photos of what happens if you don't follow your own advice, or more charitably didn't know how to prevent this without some good old fashioned trial and error.
1. Something old, something new
Here we see the problems of applying decals over decals. The second layers shrinks, tearing the first. Adhesion problems with an inadequately prepared surface. Even without the damage to the decals, the yellow and white are not opaque. better to have painted this at the outset and not relied on decals. Second best, undercoat with white and apply before lozenge, and cut around it. Third option, use a gloss clear overcoat over the underlying decal layer. Once dry, decal over. (recommended by 'drome participant Flying Helmut http://www.wingsofwar.org/forums/mem...-Flying-Helmut - thanks - will attempt with upper wing Insignia!) Probable fix - sand off all loose material and paint it like I should have in the first place. Problem to be solved - mask that won't pull up decals. Will report on success in a later post.
2. Poor surface prep / inadequate smoothing (or both)
You can see that there are patches where the decal has not remained "snuggled down" to the fluted surface. Before I started taking pictures, it had actually begun to split and the edges curl. Fortunately, I have found a way to repair that. Wet a small brush and carefully wet the underside of the broken decal, reaching back as far under as possible without tearing. At your hobbyist, find a bottle of Modelmaster clear parts cement and window maker ( http://www.amazon.com/Testor-Model-M.../dp/B0006NDZDU ) and squeeze some out onto the moistened brush you just used. Work that cement under the edge of the decal film you just wet. Use the 1/4 brush to smooth everything out. This appears to have repaired the worst of it. Whether it is permanent remains to be seen. Whether I have the courage to slit those bubbles and get them to lie down also remains to be seen. If it ain't broke all the way.......
Back to the Decaling......
Taking the advice of my mentors here on the Aerodrome, I prepared to gloss clearcoat areas which would be "overdecalled". Not having used the technique before, or these materials, a test patch was shot, with a scrap of decal attached to a convenient flat plastic surface, allowed to dry, and then sprayed over with some Modelmaster "Boyd Clear Coat" (http://www.professormotor.com/product-p/ts52720.htm) from my stash of car modeling supplies.
Needs thinning 50/50 with enamel thinner, sprayed with a Badger 150, medium tip. Goes on clear, smooth. No adverse effects on decals......safe to proceed.
I shot the insignia areas on the wings and empennage with the clear coat and gave it a good 12 hours to dry. This morning, applied the insignia.
Immediately after application, everything looks good. But then again, it always does. Will provide additional photo if it....changes.
You'll notice a slight tear on the edge of the insignia. On the balance, although I was striving to stay as original as possible (given my choice of finish) I would recommend to others to get a fresh set of insignia. No matter how good they look, and these looked ~ new despite their age, some degradation is inevitable, and may have contributed to my troubles.
Sadly, I am now stuck until the final sheet of lozenge arrives, so here it will sit until The Postman Rings.........
UPDATED - Finally here, and finished the upper wing this evening.
The process of using the clear overspray before applying the second layer is still holding up. No wrinkling, tearing, bubbling so far. Guess I'll have to finish pre-drilling the struts for the flying wires and get this thing assembled!
RIGGING:
First is a decision on materials. I have used thread (always looks fuzzy and over scale); I have used transformer wire (scavenged from dead electronics, pull any transformer out and use the transformer wire. This material looks scale but has drawbacks:
(Looks good on this Albatros....but....)
Paint does not cover it well. The factory varnish on transformer wire which provides an insulating layer does not make a good surface for paint adhesion. Additionally, if you ever bump it, remember, copper stretches. It won't break, but it will stretch, and never be straight again.
I could stretch sprue and use it. Advantage, adheres easily with available glue, tolerates some bumping, takes paint well. Disadvantages - hard to maintain dimensional consistency - plan on stretching A LOT to make enough of a correct and consistent diameter
I am going to go with fine nylon fishing line. Strong, readily available, can take some manhandling. Disadvantages, does not take paint as well as sprue; must be pulled taught and held during install using ACC; and like the transformer wire, the struts or wings must be prepared to accept the rigging which means lots of drilling with a pin vise drill.
Here's the first day's slog using nylon fishing line for the port side control cabling:
Slow going, but the acc holds it tightly, and progress is steady. It gives a good scale "look" and stays reasonably straight if you keep some tension on it until dry. You may also notice where I scraped and sanded the white/yellow band decal off and replaced with paint. I should have done it in paint in the first place! At this point I must recommend parafilm as a masking medium. It is very gentle on the surface you place it on; it cuts cleanly with an exacto, flexes and stretches where you need it; keeps a very tight, no-bleed-under line; and pulls away without leaving damage, marks, or residue. I have even used it cut into thin strips to do barber pole stripes on a 1/144 plane and it worked wonderfully. Go get some!
Finally finding time for more disciplined tedium in Rigging. A few tips for those who follow:
1. If you can, drill or cut a slot at every point of flying wire attachment. In the pic below I drilled into the fuselage at the boss for the origins of the dual rudder cables. Hides the origin and provides larger gluing surface. I slotted the surface of the elevator bell crank arms so the line would have a positive location and "snuggle down" a bit. More contact are for glue and less fiddly while drying.
2. If you can drill or slot your parts before you assemble. Seems obvious in retrospect....save yourself the risk of breakage and the headache of working around other bits to get a good angle.
Once I get these cables done I can finally attach the upper wing!!!!!
I....have....WINGS!!!!!!
Each strut was cleaned of mould parting lines, removed the "bump' where the kit would have you attach rigging, drill a hole wherever the rigging will be attached (4 per strut), prepaint, and begin building! Be prepared for some trimming to fit and some rubber bands to keep parts in compression to dry. Attached primarily with Tenax 7R and reinforced with Super Jet acc cement to fill in any gaps.
Now the real madness begins. So many flying wires.......
Technique #1 - Failed. First, attach the wire at the top strut by inserting in your pre-drilled hole and touching it with a drop of acc on a pin. Let set. So far so good. Cut to length, and insert remaining end into bottom strut hole. Apply a drop of acc. It will spring out time after time. Hold it with a tweezers, as soon as you let go, SPROING. Looking for answers.
Technique #2 - work in progress. , attach the wire at the top strut by inserting in your pre-drilled hole and touching it with a drop of acc on a pin. Let set. So far so good. Cut to length (test fits recommended so as to not cut too short. Measure thrice....). Apply a piece of scotch tape across the struts. "Pre-bend" the wire at the top, and pull taught into position, inserting in the lower strut hole, and press it against the tape. It stays put. Apply a drop of glue, cross your fingers, and wait.
Tape removed, wire remains. Whew. One done, many to go.....
Progress.....and some insight as to how this works. Had to do quite a bit of in situ re-drilling, as gluing the inner wires plugged some of the holes.
One set of boxes Complete!
And once glued in place, the entire wing structure is much stiffer than it's unwired mate!
(To be continued)
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And thanks for supplying the links to after-market accessories and tools/supplies - very helpful.
Originally Posted by Rebel
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