In Flight Propellers in motion

[Maverick]

I have wondered how to make the aircraft in flight appear more realistic....
I saw a clear propeller disc advertised
but for the life of me couldn't find who made them,
so thought i would have ago myself..it turned out much easier than i thought...

So for those who wish ~ a brief 'How to' or at least 'how i made them'.....

First of all you need a plastic container ~ i used a blister pack from Games Workshop..
and a compass with a blade not pencil (many pound shops have them).



Next split the clear container (blister) into two pieces



Then measure the distance from the center of the propeller nose cone to the tip of the propeller blade,
set this into the compasses, then position on the container and scribe around until the disc is cut out.



Next to increase the central cut out of the disc to fit over the nose cone, use a screw



Then select your aircraft for change...



NOW FOR THE BRAVE BIT !! ~ Deep intake of breath.....
Remove the propeller blades of the aircraft.....
then slide the clear disc over the nose cone to cover the place where the propellers were....



And breath out.....big sigh of relief....

The finished article....





I hope you found this of use / interest....

Hope you like the effect.

Regards to all

Maverick

For my next project ~

To see if I can convert the Mark IX to Mark III spitfires

Off to find the paint and plenty of pictures to study....

[Caveman]

Compass with a blade...I need to find one of those. Nice instructional post.

[Maverick]

And here

The flight / wing completed



Lovely jubbly!

[Teaticket]

I have made some of my own similar to you but found it much easier to buy some. Lazy me!

You can find them right 'here' on the Aerodrome store. Keith just added 3 and 4 blade versions.

[Nightbomber]

In fact the still blades in original models are the worst solution of the three: 1) still, 2) no blades, 3) in motion.
You did a great thing, Simon .
The still blades during a tabletop game like WoG stand for a damaged engine and are easy breakable. Since I am not as skilful as you are, I will stay with AIM style minis (no props).

[Captain Chum]

Nice work Simon!

[Tonx]

Excellent enhancement Simon - you have provided a good guide there as to how to achieve this effect bar one detail: How did you mark the clear prop disc once created please?

My preference is to stay with the default propeller blades in WGS possibly because I am used to seeing props static having grown up with construction kit building since the age of five. Even though it does look a bit engine-out'ish in both versions of the game.

I have tried to retrofit an Ares Supermarine Spitfire Mk IX as a Mk Vb using a three-bladed propeller to replace the four-blader and retain those characteristic wing-cannons at the same time ... But I gave up after the four-bladed propeller would not separate from the Spitfire. I was in no mood to push my luck and bust it following an expensive repaint-failure which had only just happened back then! So the Spitfire Mk IX retains it's identity to this day whilst that repaint was part-salvageable: It gave me my Crashed Lancaster which some of my games feature amongst the 3D-Scenery items used.

[Flying Helmut]

Great stuff, Mav!
I must hie me to a pound shop!

[csadn]

I have a similar approach, except I use the discs to stiffen the prop blades so they're less likely to break -- put a split from the outer rim to the inner, then slip the disc in behind the prop, and arrange so one of the blades conceals the split. Speed lines" may be added if desired.

[matt56]

Lovely work here, Simon! I agree that especially WW2 planes look good with 'spinning' props - it's my intention to do that with all of the (limited number of WW2) planes I acquire.

And DIY is certainly the way to go!

All the best,
Matt

[Zoe Brain]

At least one of the entries in the Heavy Bomber Painting Comp uses this technique. Highly recommended for all the resin models that come with no props, just the hub, AIM, HBM etc.

Use PVA/Elmers White Glue to fasten on. This dries clear. Superglue/Crazy Glue/CA glue may cause fogging, epoxy may not dry clear.

[DarrylH]

The Aerodrome Accessories aren't too difficult to modify to fit over spinners--I was a little nervous about this at first (afraid my Dremel might split the discs or that drilling them out might fog them up), but it turned out to be no problem, and is probably the way I'll go with AIM and HBM models, as well as any Shapeways designs than don't have propeller blades.

[Lt. S.Kafloc]

I use the discs from AA. Drill the centre hole wider to slip over the WGS prop hub on official minis for plastic I just stick the disc behind hub before gluing to plane. I too tried this method but could never get a neat enough circle, hence taking the lazy option.

[flash]

..I too tried this method but could never get a neat enough circle...

If you check out the arts and crafty type stores you may be able to find an hole punch of the right diameter that will do the job quick and clean, I thought about it for my WW1 stuff following a suggestion on a similar thread and found a punch in the Range of the right size but didn't go that route in the end.

[Guntruck]

If you check out the arts and crafty type stores you may be able to find an hole punch of the right diameter that will do the job quick and clean, I thought about it for my WW1 stuff following a suggestion on a similar thread and found a punch in the Range of the right size but didn't go that route in the end.

What Dave said. I go one step further by masking thin triangles with masking tape then lightly going over the triangles with fine sandpaper. I then paint the triangle black then wipe the paint off. Sufficient remains to simulate the spinning props.

I've been trying the AA spinners for WGS stuff, but have found that these are too wide for some twin engine aircraft such as the Blenheim, so have fallen back on the blister pack/punch method where necessary.

[Biggles downunder]

I have just decided to start changing from the original 'still' blades to clear disks (or is that discs?) after years of 'Yes I will, no I won't'.

I spent a couple of evenings measuring diameters, on the assumption, that the blades of each miniature were the correct length and finally decided that 3 different diameters, 16mm, 20mm & 24mm would suffice for all of my aircraft except for my Staaken which measured at 30mm.

I already had an Olfa circle cutter in my modelling box:



But for a while I was worried about how to cut a neat, large hole for spinners (think Albatross) and then I remembered seeing this tool in the local hardware shop;



I found that the largest punch (4.5mm) gave me the exact sized hole needed to slide over the spinner after cutting off the blades.

I intend to use clear acetate sheets from a box of old Overhead Projector transparency sheets that I found lying around my office - showing my age there!

Now all I need is some spare time to start work on the conversions - watch this space...

[ArkansasChuck]

I absolutely want to do this to all my planes. BUT. It does scare me how much time it will take!

[Lt. S.Kafloc]

Or you could just buy them from the Aerodrome store.

I absolutely want to do this to all my planes. BUT. It does scare me how much time it will take!

[BobP]

Here is an AIM Fiat G-50 with an Aerodrome disk.