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I am a huge history nut. I mostly fly German aircraft in Wings of Glory. My biggest pet peeve is the lack of some historical markings on the me109s. I bought some fantastic decal sheets and I am wondering if others have tried to model them to look historical accurate. Does anyone know how to take off the "X" at the tail of the plane? Would water remove it? I have a historical symbol I would like to add. Thank you in advance!
I removed the chevron from in front of Galland's Bf-109, but I used an X-acto blade to shave it off. Very carefully. If I recall, there is a mat clear coat on the model, so water won't remove any of the decals, alone.
Messerschmitt Bf-109 Painting Thread - Post #69
That looks fantastic!! I am going to attempt to remove the "X" then. I bought a couple on minaturemarket to test on. I will be adding the swastika and then some other tail markings on some basic E3s. Any tips?Quote:
Originally Posted by OldGuy59
For some of my decals, I actually used home printed ones. For my later repaints, I went with commercial decals, as I wanted better results for the white.
1. If possible, clear gloss coat the area the decal will be applied. Let dry thoroughly.
2. Apply decal, and use a decal solvent (MicroSet) to get the decal to follow any contours or shape of the model. Let dry thoroughly.
3. Lightly clear mat coat the decals, both to seal them, and to hide the underlying gloss coat.
The result should also hide any shine from the decal, as well, giving an overall mat finish to the job. Under-apply the mat clear coat. Adding more is alway easier than trying to remove too much. Add additional coats, if required.
Not WWII planes but shows the gloss coat, decal, mat coat results: Wings of Prague Lend-Lease Raffle 3 - Vimy Ridge Scenario Airplanes
Great! Thank you so much for the suggestion! I am going to try and make this work and hopefully I don't ruin the model!
If you note on my attempt, I did take off a bit of underlying paint, requiring a bit of paint touch-up before mat clear coating. If the area damaged will be consealed by the decal, jus be sure to feather the damage, carefully, with sanding, before the gloss clear coat. You may not need to do that, if the knife shaving didn't leave ridges around the edge of the remove paint. This is only if the decal solvent would cause the 'hole' to deform the surface, once all the clear coat is applied. We are talking very small layers of paint/decal. You have to decide. Oh! And at 1/200 scale, as well.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jiglypuf62
I wish Ares made the planes without the "X" to make my tail symbols that much easier! I am going to try the exacto knife method and pray hahaQuote:
Originally Posted by OldGuy59
Cross can be easily upgraded to a historical appropriate symbol just with 4 commas.
Here in CZ is possible to buy a decal set full of swastikas (for example here) and use them. I guess the most problematic is German market where they are forbidden for very long time. It was the same in Communist times here - kit builders had to cover them on competitions.
By the way, it was a big discussion when on Prague museum displayed Me.262 without them.
Hello Sir!Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan-Sam
https://miscmini.com/shop?keywords=s...0-scale-decals
I got 2 sheets of decals at this website. It's just a matter of me removing those "X". I wish I didn't even have to do this and they would make the planes fully historically accurate. Such a huge pet peeve of mine! I did just buy the Adolf Galland model on Ebay last night and I appreciate the historical JG symbols on that plane. Also... Me 262s!?
It is illegal in some european countries to display the swastika, even on toys and models. So, ARES, selling models around the world, only makes models with "representations" on WWII German planes. Just the way it is.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jiglypuf62
And, yes, that means those that want historical accuracy will have to redo their planes. Just don't take them to Germany, and put them on the table in public.
Yes, there is one. Don't forget there were several factories building air crafts for. Germans during the qar, some. Of them in underground tunnels (1944+). Czechoslovak Air Force used German models (rebuilding Bf. 109 to Avia S.199 with engines from He.111, Me.262 as the first "jet" and even Storchs). Necessary to say they were made better then La.5/7 which were designed for front service not for long service during peace.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jiglypuf62
Attachment 269884
Attachment 269885
As a huge Luftwaffe collector myself, it's wonderful to see. They have a reproduction down in VA beach which is fun to see fly.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan-Sam
Kinda like my 1/18 (and 1/64) IndyCar diecast cars.Quote:
Originally Posted by OldGuy59
No tobacco or alcohol sponsors were allowed (and that's what most of them were back then)
Did get the decals to do my Players Greg Moore back in the '90s.
Then he was killed in 1999 and I still have the decal sheet ...
:(
So I did it! I just need a clear acrylic coating now but I think it came out great. Thank you for the suggestions!
So they don't seem to be sticking too well. I had to reapply them several times. Any suggestions? Thank you!
After applying and they are dry you should seal coat them with a clear matte. Make sure you coat the whole decal and beyond the decal edges.
Eric this is the 262 you are talking about. Saw it fly in 2015.
Attachment 270310
Thank you! Do you have any clear matte that is your favorite? That is something I do not have (yet)Quote:
Originally Posted by Teaticket
That is gorgeous!! I was at WWII Weekend again this year as a Luftwaffe pilot. I was wearing mostly all original items.Quote:
Originally Posted by BobP
Got any photos of yourself in your gear Eric?
Rob.
Vallejo makes it. Also any craft store like AC Moore/Michael's should have some in their craft paint section.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jiglypuf62
Thank you! Bought the Vallejo decal set system last night and I'm hoping that works. The decals keep falling off and I'm thinkings it what they are sitting on. Hopefully the varnish helps!Quote:
Originally Posted by Teaticket
Are the decals adhering for you now? Kevin
The Vallejo decal system comes tomorrow (hopefully) so I am praying that works. Just water and the decals alone don't do it. Could be the adhesive not liking the plane material?
The model surface or something on the model surface are my thoughts.
It has to be! I'm going to try and clean the tail of the wing today and see if that helps a bitQuote:
Originally Posted by miscmini
Did you paint a clear gloss coat on the area you are putting the decals, before trying to apply them? If you have't, the matt finish will not let the decals sit flush with the surface.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jiglypuf62
Decals don't like the granulated surface of matt finishes. Any good modelers I know of put a gloss finish on their models, before applying decals, so they adhere better. Then, an overall coat of matt clear reduces the gloss on both the model and the decal, also reducing the shine of the decal compared to the paint surface.
PS: I use something like this, to spot brush the area I want to decal:
Attachment 270569
And this page is confirmatuon on the finishing process: Quick Tip: Using Matt Medium to Get Rid of Shiny Model Syndrome
PPS: Mask off canopies and any areas you want to keep shiny! Also, with 1/200 scale, you can probably get away with just a few light coats of matt, without using the 'matt medium' step, to get into the hard-to-reach places mentioned in the linked article. The ARES models aren't that big, nor will they be that closely examined.
Thank you! Do you think I should...Quote:
Originally Posted by OldGuy59
Clean it
Apply gloss varnish
Apply decal
Apply gloss varnish to seal it
Clean itQuote:
Originally Posted by Jiglypuf62
Apply gloss varnish - let dry thoroughly. Perhaps overnight, especially if you used water-based acrylic paint.
Apply decal. Let dry, and check to see that it is adhering properly. Perhaps overnight.
Apply MATT varnish to seal it. Use light coat, let dry for an hour or more.
Check for an even Matt finish and sealing. Apply another coat, if desired, to even out any difference in plane paint finish and decal area finish. It may not completely loose all the shine, but it should be very similar.
Thank you! Do you have a specific brand of Matt varnish you prefer?Quote:
Originally Posted by OldGuy59
Oh and before I forget... is there a way to test the decal to make sure it has properly held? Thanks for all the info gents
I apply an extra layer of gloss varnish.
Gloss varnish is generally much harder and tougher than Matt, and will not rub off with wear, whilst Matt varnish can.
My method :
Gloss varnish - allow to dry overnight.
Apply decal - use "Microsol" to lubricate placement - allow 30 mins+ for drying.
Apply "Microset" - this melds the decal into dips, pits and contours - DO NOT TOUCH DECAL! (it can fragment) - allow 30 mins+ for drying.
Repeat "Microset" - allow 30 mins+ for drying.
Apply Gloss varnish - this will create a hard protective layer which will not rub off with gaming use, and will prevent any chance of decal 'lift'. Allow to dry overnight.
Apply Matt varnish - two coats should suffice, to leave a pleasing 'realistic' finish. Note that heavy exposure to fingers etc during gaming can erode the Matt finish; if your model starts to look a bit 'shiny, it's time for another varnish coat!
These varnishes are Acrylic (I use Vallejo) - note that enamel based varnishes can attack decals, and can 'yellow' over time.
Unfortunately, I am at the mercy of the Friendly Local Hobby Store. There is only one store in the area (60+ miles) that sells models and paints. Testors is what they bring in, so it is what I use. Not too many on-line stores will ship spray paints, so unless I drive down to the big city, or take a ferry to the mainland, that's what ends up on my planes. It has worked so far.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jiglypuf62
As to testing the decals for adherance? If they aren't rolling up at the edges overnight, or if the appearance is clear (IE: not cloudy or foggy), they should be sitting well. The clear coat should hold them down. Cloudy or foggy decals is one sign that the surface under the decal is not smooth. It is the 'give-away' that the decal was probably applied to a matt paint, and will eventually (sooner than later) lift and peel. A clear matt coat over the decal, in this instance, will probably stay, but will never look good and remain somewhat cloudy (because it has not adhered properly in the first place).
Tim's [Flying Helmet] planes appear to get much more table time than mine. I haven't had to recoat any of my planes, so far.
When I repaint and redecal planes, Eric, I generally use the same methods described above. After I have finished painting to the extent I need, I spray of coat of Testor's Glosscote over the whole model. Once that has dried (usually overnight), I apply the decals. (Some decals I have used are not sealed themselves and will disolve in water when you are soaking them to apply them - I think it's due to the printing process and the type of film they are printed on. If you find that happening, simply spray the decal sheet with a coat of Testor's Dullcote and let that dry - then your decals should be good to go.) Another benefit of putting decals down over a gloss coat is that the decal often has a border of decal film that itself is glossy - if you apply the decal over a matte finish, that 'edge' will show up, even if you seal it. So the gloss surface allows the decal to attach to something 'smooth' and it tends to make the decal edge disappear...
Once the decal has dried, I use the Microsol/set material to snug it down, too. And then finally, once all is dry and set, I coat my planes with Testor's Dullcote from the spray can. I have always been pleased with the results, and it rarely, if ever, goes amiss.
Good luck:sAprvd:
All the best,
Matt
Thanks for the help guys! I thing I've gotten it (hopefully) Attachment 270601
Looking good! :sAprvd:Quote:
Originally Posted by Jiglypuf62
Thank you! One more question, I was tinkering with an idea of making some Afrika Korps JG27 109s. Has anyone done something like this?
Take a look through this thread: Official Messerschmitt Bf.109 Painting ThreadQuote:
Originally Posted by Jiglypuf62
Cards to go with some of the custom paint jobs: OldGuy59's WWII Axis Fighters Album (A few JG 27 cards in there)