• Upcoming Releases

    June 2017
    Series 3 Reprint
    Nieuport 17
    Albatros D.III
    RAF R.E.8
    Ufag C.I


    WGS Series 7

  • Donations

    If you like our website and want to give something back, you can make a donation.

    Please select a preferred amount of the donation, and then click the poster image below.

    Donation Amount
  • How To; Paint Wood Grain Effects

    Wood Grain Effect; A closer look at how to get that authentic look and feel to your models.

    Things you will need:

    • Base coat – I use Vallejo natural wood but Tamiya XF78 is also a good base layer.
    • Fast drying oil paints;
    o Raw Umber
    o Burnt Umber
    • Masking tape (I recommend Tamiya tape as it will not pull the paint from your model but has a good bond)
    • Craft knife – SHARP change the blade before you start work!
    • Old brush for masking
    • Selection of brushes – a fan brush is very useful for this process
    • Sponge – have a few different types at hand, course, soft, airy or dense. Each will give a different effect.
    • Varnish
    • Air tight container to place your work in to dry.

    For the oil paints Raw and Burnt Umber will give you very good results but you can also go with Yellow Ochre, Burnt Sienna, Raw Sienna and mixing the oils will also give you a more unique partner and texture. Experimentation is the key here so practice on a sheet of plastic first and get a feel for how the technique works. However for this process I will use Raw and Burnt Umber.


    This is very important as you don’t want to ruin previous work that you have down so make sure you cover your non-working are well. I use and old brush to push the tape down in to tall the crevasses and fine detailed area to prevent bleed. For an in depth 'How To' on masking go here.

    Base coat:

    Don’t rush, either using an airbrush or wide brush lay down your base coat. If you get streaks don’t worry as these will add to the overall effect, if you are deliberately streaking your work then I suggest streak each individual panels in different direction. As I mentioned before, aircraft buildings painstakingly cut each section so the grains would not follow the same seam to give more strength to the airframe.

    Once this is down you can leave it to dry, I would recommend over night. The reason for this is because you really want the base coat to fully harden as we will be masking a lot for this process. It also gets you in to the good habit of taking your time.

    More Masking:

    12 hours later and I’m ready to get the first panels coated. We are only going to work on a few panels at a time that will have the same direction of grain. So I will carefully mask of the other surfaces that we don’t want to coat.

    Oil Paints:

    I’m going to start with the burnt umber and using an old wide brush I put down a good coating, you’ll see the lines and streaks, don’t worry about these as they will help with the deeper seams in the wood and you’re not going to be able to paint the oils on evenly anyway.


    Now here is the fun part, breaking off a small piece of sponge of the density you want I will wipe it gently across the surface of the paint. In this case I will wipe diagonally across the panel. I found turning the work piece so that I’m wiping vertically easier then wiping across the work.

    •Notice the buildup of oil paint next to the masking tape, do not worry about this as the oil paint will also take on the role of ink/washes and darken any indentations in the work.

    To help with the swirls and knots in the wood I used a fan brush an flicked/rotated 180 to swirl the oil paints around and then using a smaller brush and the sponge worked the grain again.

    The great thing about oils is that if you go wrong you can just wipe it off with a lint free tissue and start again.

    Removing the masking

    One thing I have started doing is removing the masking tape about an hour after I have finished painting, but before the paint has dried. The reason for this is on a few occasions when I have removed the masking only to be either left with a very high ridge in the paint or for the overflow to peel off some of the finished work area.

    But slowly peeling off the masking you remove this, however care must be taken not to disturb or damage the work you have put in.

    Storage While Drying:

    I put the pieces in an air tight container to dry, this is essential as oil paint attracts lint and dust like nobody’s business so keeping it covered during the drying process is essential. Also make sure your container is CLEAN! I throw mine in the dishwasher on wash and dry cycle and only remove them when I'm about to put the pieces inside.

    This is also good practice when varnishing your work either with mat or gloss finishes, the last thing you want is a bit of hair, dust or lint settling on your beautifully finished model!

    I normally use a piece of thick masking tape folded in half to stick the pieces to the bottom of the container and then tape one end down just to be safe. Again this protects your work if you incidentally knock it or need to move it.

    More Masking:

    So now all we do is repeat the process, some like to leave the masking tape on around the edges but I prefer to remove it all and get a good look at what it looks like so far. It gives me a better idea of which way the next panels grain needs to go and ensures that the bond between the model and tape is good.

    Next Panel:

    So now we repeat the process laying the oil down first in the direction of the grain we want and then using the sponge and brushes to get the effects that we want. This is a very lengthy process especially if you have a lot of panels, Early Albatros are a real chore however once you look at a fuselage with all the grain affects in different directions the model becomes something more and unique drawing the eye each time to different areas of detail.


    How you lay this is just as important as the oils and I would recommend brush on the gloss varnish rather than airbrushing. Again I would recommend brushing in the same direction as the grain as this will really highlight all the ridges and gullies of the oil paints that you painstakingly applied.

    Remember patience is the key, some of the models that you see displayed have taken over a year to build and in many situations waiting takes up the majority of the build time.
    This article was originally published in forum thread: How To; Paint Wood Grain Effects started by FarEast View original post
  • Recent Posts


    Sopwith Pup Information

    This is certainly one aircraft that Ares needs to produce in an "official" version. yes, there are others, but the Pup is iconic.

    zenlizard Today, 09:48 Go to last post

    Sopwith Pup Information

    Have used Pups more than once in the game, well worth a look at when playing earlyish war

    Boney10 Today, 09:47 Go to last post

    Date Changes, Again . . .

    Oh is this kickstarter still happening its been so long and so well handled, I almost forgot about it.
    All I wanted was Balls

    Boney10 Today, 09:44 Go to last post
    Flying Officer Kyte

    Date Changes, Again . . .

    That's what I thought Tim, so any day now!

    Flying Officer Kyte Today, 08:33 Go to last post
    Flying Helmut

    Date Changes, Again . . .

    Two years from Mars to Earth - sounds about right @ closest orbital approach.

    Flying Helmut Today, 08:19 Go to last post
    Flying Officer Kyte

    Date Changes, Again . . .

    Been in the depths of space between the two planets for that long then Dave?
    Anything wrong with the bags?

    Flying Officer Kyte Today, 08:01 Go to last post

    >> FAQs & Points of Interest <<+>>Ace Skills & Optional Rules<<

    Its also par for the course for a lot of players coming from X wing and other competitive games. Can be a gateway to historical scenarios.

    Xen Today, 07:51 Go to last post

    >> FAQs & Points of Interest <<+>>Ace Skills & Optional Rules<<

    Thanks guys.

    If you are playing tournament mode you can get very highly skilled aces due to a point limit

    Xen Today, 07:49 Go to last post

    >> FAQs & Points of Interest <<+>>Ace Skills & Optional Rules<<


    Under what conditions would a plane have a crew that experienced? Each crew member would had to

    OldGuy59 Today, 07:41 Go to last post

    April Work bench 2019

    Nice touch Paul

    flash Today, 07:37 Go to last post

    Clipper's List

    Awesome, thank you.

    kalnaren Today, 07:35 Go to last post

    >> FAQs & Points of Interest <<+>>Ace Skills & Optional Rules<<

    Ace skills are always a specific crew member on a plane, never the player. On a multi-crewed plane, skills are applied to specific crew

    OldGuy59 Today, 07:34 Go to last post

    >> FAQs & Points of Interest <<+>>Ace Skills & Optional Rules<<

    Well the application of skills has broadened over the years from a handful applicable to the famous aces in the WoW days to the application of various

    flash Today, 07:30 Go to last post

    Easter reading of the Martian Wars

    For, as we might expect, the second invasion is imminent, I decided to soak some theory of the Martian Wars. The obvious choice was to refresh the original

    Nightbomber Today, 07:03 Go to last post

    >> FAQs & Points of Interest <<+>>Ace Skills & Optional Rules<<

    Also, is Strong Constitution played as per normal on multi engine bombers?

    Ie, you draw a crew damage token, draw chits to see how many

    Xen Today, 06:09 Go to last post

    >> FAQs & Points of Interest <<+>>Ace Skills & Optional Rules<<

    I'm struggling with the definition of "Ace" as opposed to "Pilot"

    Is "Ace" the player? or the particular crew

    Xen Today, 06:08 Go to last post

    April Work bench 2019

    Generally I agree with you. In this case the Eduard painting reference looked cool so I went with it.

    ShadowDragon Today, 05:51 Go to last post

    Official Pfalz E.I Painting Thread

    Tim you still cannot see the join where you dropped it
    A very worthy winner at the Prague Con this year. Beat Alexis Sayles plane by

    tikkifriend Today, 05:25 Go to last post

    We Have a Winner for Raffle #4 for Wings of Prague!

    What Tim said. Prague is just as beautiful as always and the beer is just as good.

    tikkifriend Today, 05:19 Go to last post
    Flying Helmut

    Official Pfalz E.I Painting Thread

    Yes, the fuselage decals are homebrew - my first success with such, after several disasters using Inkjet. These were done on my work's Laser printer,

    Flying Helmut Today, 04:37 Go to last post
    Flying Helmut

    Official Fokker Dr1 painting thread.

    That's the spirit!
    As I mentioned on another thread, you've achieved a grand result with these two!

    Flying Helmut Today, 04:33 Go to last post
    Flying Helmut

    We Have a Winner for Raffle #4 for Wings of Prague!

    You lucky so-and-so!

    Enjoy your winnings.

    Flying Helmut Today, 04:24 Go to last post

    Official Fokker Dr1 painting thread.

    You have some lovely choices in both of those Jastas, Paul - it shouldn't be hard to find several to your liking! Beautiful work on those two Dr.Is, to

    matt56 Today, 04:23 Go to last post
    Flying Helmut

    April Work bench 2019

    I think you've got it spot on!

    I'm not a fan of the all-too-correct-but-I-personally-don't-like-it old scheme see-through (particularly on

    Flying Helmut Today, 04:20 Go to last post

    Sopwith Pup Information

    the file for unofficial aircraft is here:
    The Pup uses the

    Jager Today, 01:34 Go to last post
  • Site Sponsors