Sachsenberg's D-VII

[clipper1801]

My most recent paint job that nearly made me sane! It was very close but I have returned to my "normal" state, yeah even if it is Arizona!

http://i1106.photobucket.com/albums/h379/Revchaos/Fokker%20DVII/2012-02-15_22-18-23_23.jpg

Yeah the yellow is cool,the diamonds do it though!

http://i1106.photobucket.com/albums/h379/Revchaos/Fokker%20DVII/2012-02-15_22-18-34_48.jpg

Yes there be lozenge as well! And did I mention its YELLOW!

And of course in keeping with my psychosis, there are multiple manifestations!

http://i1106.photobucket.com/albums/h379/Revchaos/Fokker%20DVII/2012-02-15_22-18-02_851.jpg

So a fellow Fokker fan made the suggestion and I had all the bits to make it already to go. The AeroMaster decal set was for a 1/48" scale model and a quick 34% reduction copy was made in color onto white decal paper.

http://i1106.photobucket.com/albums/h379/Revchaos/Fokker%20DVII/2012-02-15_22-19-49_264.jpg

Now the fun can begin. I chose yellow spray enamel and gave them a few coats, then began the hard work. Patterns for the two lozenge patterns needed to be cut.

http://i1106.photobucket.com/albums/h379/Revchaos/Fokker%20DVII/2012-02-14_21-08-56_740.jpg

Decals cut to match the patterns. I started with the diamonds on the fuselage. Patterns were needed for the top, sides-front and back, and the bottom. They went on quite nicely and led me into the mire.

http://i1106.photobucket.com/albums/h379/Revchaos/Fokker%20DVII/2012-02-14_21-08-48_1.jpg

Lozenges were applied.

http://i1106.photobucket.com/albums/h379/Revchaos/Fokker%20DVII/2012-02-14_21-28-18_627.jpg

And applied,

http://i1106.photobucket.com/albums/h379/Revchaos/Fokker%20DVII/2012-02-14_21-28-24_342.jpg

And repeated.

http://i1106.photobucket.com/albums/h379/Revchaos/Fokker%20DVII/2012-02-14_21-09-07_302.jpg

The mysterious black rectangles go on the top wing, rudder crosses.

http://i1106.photobucket.com/albums/h379/Revchaos/Fokker%20DVII/2012-02-13_12-21-35_356.jpg

Wing crosses cut out from the decals and added x 4

http://i1106.photobucket.com/albums/h379/Revchaos/Fokker%20DVII/2012-02-15_22-19-10_666.jpg

And then a final dull coat.

http://i1106.photobucket.com/albums/h379/Revchaos/Fokker%20DVII/2012-02-15_22-18-14_913.jpg

The final notes, I am not sure I am sold on lozenge decals, after working with stickers for a while they are easier to apply. The decals were very delicate, a rough touch would disturb the color ink, even after a top coat on the decal sheet as directed in the instructions. Too much clear coat made them stiff and unable to conform to the model surface. Micro Sol and Micro Set did not help too much either.
What tricks do you use?

http://i1106.photobucket.com/albums/h379/Revchaos/Fokker%20DVII/2012-02-13_12-21-51_212.jpg

Still they are very cute! Well worth the effort!

http://i1106.photobucket.com/albums/h379/Revchaos/Fokker%20DVII/2012-02-15_22-47-36_604.jpg

http://i1106.photobucket.com/albums/h379/Revchaos/Fokker%20DVII/2012-02-15_22-18-55_595.jpg

Clipper

[rote Flügel]

Those look great... keeps me thinking I could do some of those too... but then something comes up.. lol... I need to make some lozenge decals and just try them out.. see how I like it... thanks for sharing... again... you do great work.

[Chris Maes]

Clipper,

another AWSOME job! For applying decals (especially to Shapeways WSF models) I have settled on the following technique:

1. Wash the model with soap & cool water; for trouble spots (or to remove a bad paint job) I soak overnight in "Simple Green".

2. Spray the model with several light coats of primer (I use Krylon or other "auto' primers from the hardware store, as I am none too impressed with the Armoury or GW brands- too expensive for what you get)

3. Spray the model with a base coat of paint (sometimes I don't even bother with a primer if it is a dark color). I use stuff from the hardware store or hobby shop, as long as it is not the "really cheap" stuff you sometimes find. Gloss or matte doesn't matter at this point, just (carefully) spray it on "a little thicker than you normally would" but be careful that it doesn't run or drip. The WSF material is rather porous and will absorb a lot of paint. Too thin and it will show off that grainy look.

4. Now, I will do most of the detail painting. Ex. If my aircraft was a British Sopwith Camel and the primary color was PC-10, I'd probably spray paint it "Camouflage Forrest Green" or maybe "Camouflage Dark Brown" (I use a lot of different types but like the stuff made to camouflage stuff for hunting, etc...). Then I would paint the undersides a light tan or cream simulating the CDL undersurfaces. Next would be cowling, wood decking, leather trim around cockpit, machine guns, engine, etc...

5. Washing and Weathering- I don't always do this step, or at least not the whole aircraft. For a wash, I use the tried and true "Magic Wash" formula (4 parts water to 1 part "Future" acrylic floor polish); pour some in a bottle cap, add a dab of black or dark brown (ink or paint), stir thoroughly and paint on the model- either the entire model or just where you want to add contrast, etc... Note: this wash dries fast and actually helps to seal the porous WSF surface. When thoroughly dry... I do some dry brushing (just a shade lighter than the primary color) to bring out some highlights, add depth, etc... Don't over do it.

6. Once I am done with the major painting, I give the model a good coat of clear gloss spray enamel- I prefer "Crystal" or "Clear Coat" by Krylon or one of the major manufacturers (Better and a whole lot cheaper than Testors or Armoury). Let this dry, then flip the model over and do the same on the other side. Again, this (more than anything else I have found) fills in the porous WSF surface and reduces that "grainy" look. Note: I have tried the Clear Gloss coat before the primary color coat, which produced a really smooth surface, but I had problems with the color coat then sticking to the glossy surface and ended up with a "antique crackle" effect, which is definitely NOT what I was after. Oh, well... back to the Simple Green...

7. OK, finally ready to apply decals. I do not use "Micro Sol" or "Micro Set"- 1) I sometimes have a hard time finding it, 2) I have heard as many horror as success stories, 3) I already have a cheap substitute. the trick to applying decals is to have as smooth a surface as possible- that is one reason for the gloss coat in step 6. So, after cutting out all my decals and checking to ensure they will fit, I then get my tools ready:
a. soft, lint-free, cotton dish towel
b. a fine-point and a broad/flat tipped paint brush
c. small bowl of really warm water
d. small cup/bowl of full strength "Future" acrylic floor polish


First, I will put only the decals I am ready to use in the warm water to loosen them up (Ex. upper wing roundels for our Sopwith Camel)
Then I will paint the areas I am decal-ling with the 100% strength "Future"- this gives a nice wet, slippery surface for the decal to slide on, allowing you to adjust for final positioning and also helps to adhere the decal to the surface as well as fill in any of those annoying WSF pores.
Once I have the decal where i want it, I will try to soak up any excess moisture with a paper towel- just let capillary action do its thing.
Now, using the lint-free cotton towel, I will GENTLY press the decal onto the surface so that it conforms closely to the surface detail.
When dry (or mostly so) I will apply another coat of "Future" over and around the decal, helping to seal the surface and around the edges.
Let Dry and work on another model.
Repeat. I will usually do upper wings and maybe tail decals, then give the model another shot of the Clear Gloss spray enamel and let set, this lessens the chance that I will mess-up one set of decals while applying another.

8. Final paint touches. For polished metal cowlings, etc... I find that painting them (or repaintng them) after you have as many coats of gloss gives you a better, smoother, more polished look. I will also frequently ink the control surfaces with a very fine point drafting pen, etc...

9. When all else is done, I give the model a coat (or two) of Testors "Dullcote"- In my opinion, this is the best... hands down, no competition. When forced, I will substitute Krylon "Clear Matte" spray. I will no longer use Armoury as I have had to re-do too many projects.

10. Enjoy your new bird, while your research your next. Note: this step is best done with a pint of Guinness ;)

Cheers,

Chris Maes

[Belis4rius]

I have always liked this colour scheme, who wouldn't. Well done.

[Baldrick62]

Clipper,
As always: respect, both for the quantity, but above all, the quality!
BofB

[grumpybear]

VERY BRIGHT, hard to miss in a dogfight. Nicely done

[Hunter]

Clipper, today, has blessed me with one of these for my hanger. What a wingman! Thank you.

[flash]

Nice paint scheme Dave - but I would say that wouldn't I ?! ;)

[greenalfonzo]

Fantastic finish on that one. It's such a natural choice for Ares to do when they get their next VII's out.

[Boney10]

Very nicely done, I got one of these in my collection also. Lovely scheme.
I agree with Kev that I would expect to see this and possibly Hippert when Aries get around to doing some DVII.
In the meantime well done that man again :)
Dont suppose you could post the templates for the wings could you :)