New: Hannover CL.III from Colinwe

[Zoe Brain]

http://www.shapeways.com/openfile/416574/416574.v0.s14.convert.large.jpg

This one provides plenty of scope for some interesting paint jobs.

http://www.tin-soldier.com/Hanna%20Decal%20Sets.jpg

http://www.greatwarflyingmuseum.com/aircraft/images/germany/hannover_clii.jpg


The 'Hannoveranner' came into operational use towards the end of 1917 and was unique in having a biplane tail. Such a feature had previously been seen only on multi-engined aircraft. The purpose being to reduce the tailpane span, thereby affording the observer a wider field of fire. For a two-seater the CL.II was a smallish and compact aircraft and was often attacked by allied scouts in mistake for a single-seater, an illusion shattered rudely by the chatter of the observer's Parabellum. The ply-skinned rather deep fuselage offered excellent downwards view and proved immensely strong.

Designed to be used as an escort for the C class machines, with the change of the designation to Schlachtstaffeln (Battle Flights) the Hannover was used to co-operate with the ground troops in low-level straffing and harassing of the opposing infantry lines and rear areas. In this role the aircraft was particularly effective, aided by its excellent manoeuverability and good lateral control.

One Gotcha for the modeller: the lozenging used the inverted-V-diagonal pattern, one of the few aircraft to do so routinely (but not universally) in both 4- and 5-colour versions. Sometimes the light version usually only found on lower wings was used too.

http://www.modellversium.de/galerie/img/1/3/5/5135/3097949/hannover-clIIIa-eduard.jpg

http://www.wwi-n-plastic.com/Mypix/Models/Loz/Angled1.jpg

Fear not though: for some schemes were about as simple as they could be.

http://www.wwiaviation.com/drawings/hannover-cl-iiia-913-600px.png


http://mirageswar.com/uploads/posts/1223313548_wd231.jpg


This one's more typical: lozenging on the wings, and much larger hand-painted polygons in the lozenge colours on the plywood fuselage.

http://albums.modelbrouwers.nl/coppermine/albums/userpics/10319/746c4418b26c2ef258d65e714988ce34.jpg

http://img.wp.scn.ru/camms/ar/414/pics/59_4.jpg

http://img.wp.scn.ru/camms/ar/414/pics/59_2.jpg

Sometimes simple irregular stripes were used instead,

http://img.wp.scn.ru/camms/ar/414/pics/59_3.jpg


Most Hannover CL.II, III, IIIa wings rudder and elevators were covered in 5 colour from the factory. Early CL.II & some CL.III had an overall light blue scheme.

The fuselage was plywood and hand painted lozenges on the outside were larger than the printed fabric on the wings. As the lozenges went back to the tail unit they got smaller and were usually several shades out of tune with the fabric covered rudder and elevators. There is some thought by those in the know that another colour (lt. blue?) was oversprayed thinly over the whole fuselage lozenge scheme to mute the colours even further. The interior was varnished ply.

The center-section of the top wing was plywood covered as well and the upper surface was painted very similar to the fuselage. Its underside is thought to be varnished plywood - not painted.

http://www.wwi-models.org/Images/Sheftall/CP/Hann/newhan2.jpg

http://www.wwi-models.org/Images/Alverado/CP/HannCliiia/ma_piperhobby013.jpg

For night Ops, the dark version of lozenge was used, with the fuselage polygons overpainted a deep blue.'

http://www.wwi-models.org/Images/Arnold/Hannover/Hann_CLIIIa_2/hanc3a_new_7.jpg


The Hannovers were in at least three (3) different color schemes. This subject has momentarily stopped my work on the color plates for the book. I am not totally sure of which 5 color printed was used on the first order, at any event the fuselage and center section were painted in five colors of blue,magenta,light green, ruby and ochre. I think the wings, rudder,and tailplane were covered 5 color light pattern bottom fabric on the top surfaces with plain fabric on the under surfaces.
At some point in the production of the first order Hannover changed to 5 color upper pattern fabric in the intermediate colors of ruby,blue, light green, brown and dark green on the upper surfaces, with the light 5 color fabric on the under surfaces.
The Han.Cl.III were covered with four color fabric, the dark pattern on the top surfaces and the light 4 color pattern on the under surfaces. I think the change in fabric was to identify the parts belonged to the Cl.III. I said "I think". I think the fuselage and center-section were painted with the four colors matching the dark pattern 4 color fabric.
The Han.Cl.IIIa was covered with 5 color fabric, the dark pattern on the top surfaces and the light pattern on the bottom sides. The fuselage and center-section were painted in the five colors matching the dark pattern printed fabric. The struts were painted in the same colors on all three types as on the fuselage.
...
The colors used on the irregular polygons on the fuselage, center-section, lower stabilizer, styruts and wheel covers were: dull blue, 23D4; greyish magenta, 14D3; greyish turquoise, 24E4; dull green, 28D4 and dark blonde, 5D4.

Usually the polygons were nowhere near as neat as appears on many illustrations.

http://i1011.photobucket.com/albums/af234/Jamo_kiwi/Hannover%20CL%20II%2013082/CLII13082c.jpg

http://i1011.photobucket.com/albums/af234/Jamo_kiwi/Hannover%20CL%20II%2013082/CLII13082b.jpg

One for my shopping cart,

[GilmoreDK]

Heh.. You beat me to it!
Great plane .. Read Hans Gerd Rabes wonderfull discription of a fight with 10 French SPAD XIII versus 1 Hannover in:

http://www.amazon.com/s?ie=UTF8&keywords=Germanys%20First%20Air%20Force%201941-1918%2C%20Peter%20Kilduff&rh=n%3A283155%2Ck%3AGermanys%20First%20Air%20Force%201941-1918%5Cc%20Peter%20Kilduff&page=1

Spoiler: It ends badly for 4 of the SPADs...

- Gilmore

[Mike W]

Wonderful to see this aircraft available at last!!

[kduke42]

Wonderful to see this aircraft available at last!!

He has been very responsive to suggestions. I sent him a list of planes I thought were very common and either completely unavailable (WoW, Reverisco, Skytrex) like the Be2c and Big Ack, as well as some planes there there were models of but I thought (having seen how good these are) that some folks would prefer the computer 3D, like the Halberstadt Cl and this one.

Very cool, and (even tho I do have models for both this and the Halb) I'm looking forward to the nicer detail in these.

[Burt]

I was thinking that this would be a good plane to bring out next and hey presto there it is.
Well done to Zoe for producing copious information on colour schemes as well.
I think this is yet another plane to go on the "I want" list which seems to get longer every week.
The majority of planes that I buy from now on will be Shapeways I cant see me buying many from W.o.G.

[GilmoreDK]

And as 1/350 scale as well: http://www.shapeways.com/model/416623/1_350th_hannover_cl_iii.html?gid=sg91179

[kduke42]

I've never actually finished one of these planes. Some I will be painting and then adding insignia and some I have "whole body" decals from Tin Soldier.

Do I need to prep the plastic some way? Is there any special type of paint that has to be used?

thanks all

[pflanzer]

Lots of conversation regarding the finish and how to improve it. For reverisco decals you need to end up with a white base. I usually clear coat the white with at least a semigloss before applying the decals. Avoid overhandling the decaled model. I have recently started to spray clearcoat over completed sections ie. top or bottom of wings. If the edges don't seem to be secure use a little PVA to help hold them down till you can clearcoat.
Tony

[Zoe Brain]

I should really write a "how to" for WSF.

First, it's porous. Really, really absorbent. So the first thing to do is seal it, using some form of varnish. I use polyurethane wood sealant, a quick dip, then brush off excess using a turps-soaked brush. Brush off again in an hour to avoid pooling.

Others have used normal spray clear varnish (2 coats) with good effect.

Then, you may wish to smooth the finish. Over-do it, you get a glassy surface that repels water - acryllic paint beads. I use 1 or 2 coats of sealant thinned with turps (3 is too much), others just use up to 2 additional coats of spray clear varnish.

I recommend acryllics here. NOT Tamiya. Tamiya uses a thinner mixture that on some plastics and resins causes bad stuff to happen, acetone released etc. While the sealant should stop this from happening, I'd play it safe. I never use Tamiya except on metal.

I've used common old artists acryllics, old humbrol enamel, no problems. I'd use an unthinned base coat to remove all traces of rough surface, then thin coats over the top for hue and shading.

Now you can just paint it without sealant. But the emery-board like natural finish is visible under 6".

For putting on a skin of decals, just sealing it is fine, the natural colour of the material is white.

After decalling, protecting the paint and decals with a coat of varnish is a must. I use a gloss varnish first, then dulcote all fabric surfaces (not natural wood, painted wood or metal)

[Von Schlepp]

What about a coat of Mr. Surfacer?? I've seen Shapeways stuff over at Grumpybears place last week and I think it would work fine. Either aerosol or brush.
My Shapeways order won't be here till mid month so we shall see.

-Roger