Scale model vs game piece

[Gbear58]

After a jaunt into the ww2 side I have managed to find my way back to the pure form and I have taken up working on new paper models. This brings me to a question for the group of paper modelers.
Do you prefer to make "scale models" or game pieces. To be clear what I mean in terms of paper models, is do you construct your models strictly by the kit or do you make substitutions or modifications to produce a more robust completed piece. I have evolved into the later with wire replacing wing struts and cowls made from paper brads.
What part of the modelers out there make changes in the kits to speed production or in crease durability?
Bear

[Zakopious]

I make game pieces.
Most paper models need to be reduced to 1/144 scale which is pretty small.
It is expedient to ignore the microscopic parts.

http://www.wingsofwar.org/forums/showthread.php?7040-Cardmodel-Camels-by-Zakopious

[Diamondback]

To be honest, I'm not really sure... when I was an active modeler I did a bit of both, though I'm more open to using the old crude "toy-like" early-generation models as gaming figures than some of the newer "fine-scale" kits. (There are exceptions... Minicraft's recent line is largely the old 1/144 Crown POS's but with some dramatic improvements on decals and clear sprues, and their 1/200 Spruce Goose has both the durability of a game-piece and the quality of a contest-entry display model.)

[matt56]

I think ideally I like to find a happy medium - as a modeler I want things to be 'accurate' but I certainly understand a sense of practicality when it comes to being able to 'play' with the piece on a game table...kind of a fine line sometimes that we walk...:p

All the best,
Matt

[pbhawkin]

As a former card modeller (planes and ships) I can suggest that there are some techniques you can use that will still allow a display like model that is robust enough to use on the gaming table.
Firstly I would use thicker paper then what is recommended in the instructions. Usually it is 80 GSM but I would increase this to 100 to 120 GSM. Remember some allowance for the thicker paper is needed when assembling so that things like fuselage of the aircraft meets appropriately on the spine the same if there are any bulkheads/formers these need to be thinned/reduced to allow for the thicker paper. Fuselage bulkheads made out of balsa also will be much stronger than the paper original which can be used as a template for the bulkhead.
When assembling wings I put a couple of toothpicks end to end to act as a spar with the points at the wingtips this allows a natural curvature of the tips as well as a aerodynamic shape to be made and held for the wing itself. Other materials like a wooden popsicle stick appropriately carved at the ends can also be used. The advantage of these materials is that ordinary white glue or PVA still works fine.
Undercarriage legs as well as wings struts made with thin paper can be folded around around wooden cocktail sticks or appropriately shaped matchsticks and these will be much stronger than the paper originals without compromising looks.

[Zakopious]

As a former card modeller (planes and ships) I can suggest that there are some techniques you can use that will still allow a display like model that is robust enough to use on the gaming table.
Firstly I would use thicker paper then what is recommended in the instructions. Usually it is 80 GSM but I would increase this to 100 to 120 GSM. Remember some allowance for the thicker paper is needed when assembling so that things like fuselage of the aircraft meets appropriately on the spine the same if there are any bulkheads/formers these need to be thinned/reduced to allow for the thicker paper. Fuselage bulkheads made out of balsa also will be much stronger than the paper original which can be used as a template for the bulkhead.
When assembling wings I put a couple of toothpicks end to end to act as a spar with the points at the wingtips this allows a natural curvature of the tips as well as a aerodynamic shape to be made and held for the wing itself. Other materials like a wooden popsicle stick appropriately carved at the ends can also be used. The advantage of these materials is that ordinary white glue or PVA still works fine.
Undercarriage legs as well as wings struts made with thin paper can be folded around around wooden cocktail sticks or appropriately shaped matchsticks and these will be much stronger than the paper originals without compromising looks.

Have you made any 1/144 scale cardmodel planes ?
They are so small that it would be difficult to incorporate popsicle sticks and toothpicks into the wings.
I use 32 Lb. paper for my 1/144 scale planes and it works well.
See: http://www.wingsofwar.org/forums/showthread.php?6618-1-144-Cardmodels-by-Zakopious&p=94244&viewfull=1#post94244

[pbhawkin]

Hi Zakopious,
Most of my planes were 1/72, but I did make a 1/144 Walrus and used thin down (about 50%) toothpicks to strengthen the top wing.
You can see it in these views:
164585
164586

[Zakopious]

Good Work !

How did you "thin" the toothpick ?

[pbhawkin]

I simply sanded it down on one side.