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Flying Officer Kyte
04-21-2010, 14:12
Here are a few shots of the Baron's Boys giving a Spad a hard time. Fortunately, Biggles & Friends turn up to spoil the party.
Meanwhile Albert Ball on a separate mission takes out an Albatross which is lurking above the dog fight.

You may notice the new accessories being used thanks to Col. Hajj.

Oberst Hajj
04-21-2010, 20:46
Looking good!

Max von Clickenhoff
04-23-2010, 11:10
Very nice photos.

AlgyLacey
04-23-2010, 11:26
I like the idea of putting the magnet and ring BOTH on pegs - that way there's no damage to the aircraft which have absorbed such a horrific amount of cash.

Do you find planes tend to "roll off" into a dive rotating on the peg? If so any ideas to stop them without permanent attatchment?

Volant Gun
04-25-2010, 11:57
To be honest I didn't think the swivels made that big of a difference until I saw these pictures. Wow! I need to get me some. :D

Volant Gun

Flying Officer Kyte
04-27-2010, 01:14
Do you find planes tend to "roll off" into a dive rotating on the peg? If so any ideas to stop them without permanent attatchment?

As I mentioned in the "Upcoming Products" link, I just add a little superglue to the ball. Once dry it gives extra friction to the surface. Depending on the plane, some need it, some not. Hope this is helpful.
Rob.

Kashirigi
05-06-2010, 10:42
I like the idea of putting the magnet and ring BOTH on pegs - that way there's no damage to the aircraft which have absorbed such a horrific amount of cash.

Although I'm still waiting for my shipment of magnets and ball bearings, I think the [recessed] bearing might be a little less obtrusive than a peg. If you paint the bearing to match the fuselage you'll make it even less visible, plus it won't stick out as much as the peg. The extra friction from the paint should help with "roll off" too.

Having the bearing closer to the centre of mass will also help with the rolling problem.

On a peripherally related note: If you've cut off your peg and you suddenly need a new one, a bamboo skewer slightly sharpened and trimmed produces an almost exact match for the original. It has the benefit of being enormously cheaper than plastic rod and allows you to barbecue things (preferably not the airplanes). Gluing it with a strong adhesive like Weldbond works well, and painting it with acrylics makes it indistinguishable from the original.

Oberst Hajj
05-06-2010, 22:24
Just to clarify, when the bearing and magnet are directly under the plane and on top of the top most peg (arranged as designed), there is no issue with rolling or any thing. The only exception to this that I have found in any of the WWI minis is the Roland C.II This is the only mini with a solid metal body. It is just too heavy and will tip forward into a dive most of the time.

Flying Officer Kyte
05-08-2010, 05:02
Just to clarify, when the bearing and magnet are directly under the plane and on top of the top most peg (arranged as designed), there is no issue with rolling or any thing. The only exception to this that I have found in any of the WWI minis is the Roland C.II This is the only mini with a solid metal body. It is just too heavy and will tip forward into a dive most of the time.

I have had the same problem with the Roland, and am looking into it at the present.
Kashirigi's suggestion about the skewer for a peg seems a good one, but I am unsure why he thinks the magnet and ball look obtrusive on the flight pegs. (see my photos of planes) I guess it is each to his own on this one.
Rob.

het
08-05-2010, 01:10
could it be better if both ring and ball were magnetic ?

Oberst Hajj
08-05-2010, 02:04
I tried using a ball magnet and a ring magnet. The poles of the two would not line up very well which made it hard to get them to seat together. Once they did, there was no real increase in strength. The smooth sides of the ball magnet or bearing is the problem, not the strength of the magnetic bond. I roughed up my steal bearing and it now holds the Roland just fine with the ring magnet.

ara398
08-05-2010, 03:02
Exactly the same conclusion I came to Keith - just a slight 'rough up' with some fine sandpaper increases the friction enough to hold even a 1/144 Stuka.

Regards,
Adrian

het
08-05-2010, 03:36
thanks for explanations !