Shapeways Frosted Ultra Detail Question

**brdavis** · 10-04-2016 16:48

It seems that Frosted Ultra Detail is still the preferred material for those that want better detail and less grain than the White/Strong/Flexible material. The two things that concern me are the price and that (I've heard) the material is brittle.
I read at least one report where someone ordered a FUD model that came with the tail missing. Shapeways replaced the model under their customer service, so he gave the defective model a test-drop to the floor, and nothing broke.

Can anyone else report on their experience (good or bad) with the brittle-ness of FUD? The ares models also don't take a fall as well as WSF... I've had a few fall from the table to a hard floor but I've never broken one of those. If I've never broken an Ares/Nexus model, am I being overly concerned about FUD?

**Zoe Brain** · 10-05-2016 02:14

My experience with FUD has been dismal. Far too fragile.

**Nightbomber** · 10-05-2016 02:51

IMHO the best material for our outsouced minis is resin.
Light (easy gimbal mounting), smooth (nice paint effect), sturdy (to certain extent). AIM resin models keep the best quality/price ratio.

**Carl_Brisgamer** · 10-05-2016 04:30

Originally Posted by Nightbomber

IMHO the best material for our outsouced minis is resin.
Light (easy gimbal mounting), smooth (nice paint effect), sturdy (to certain extent). AIM resin models keep the best quality/price ratio.

For WGS I must agree with Andrzej, AIM are my preferred 1/200 miniatures. I have bought Shapeways (mostly FUD) for those I wanted but could not get at the time, but for finish and durability AIM comes out on top every time.

**Foz** · 10-05-2016 05:44

I've not yet had issues with FUD for WWII, though thin wires always are an issue, so I'd stay away from bi-planes etc in FUD.
It has most of the mechanical properties of a normal model plastic. It can be seen as fragile, in the same way an Airfix model is fragile.
I have dropped a few of my FUD planes, and every time they have bounced.
As for the plane with no tail, if I remember rightly, that may have been one of my first designs, a Tempest. I hadn't got used to the tolerances of Shapeways, and there mystical ways on changes the rules every bloody model.

**jbmacek** · 10-05-2016 09:35

I agree with Zoe, for biplanes and anything with fine 'wires' FUD is too delicate.
WSF is great. Resilient enough that you can drop them and they will bounce instead of break (usually). And you can't beat the price.

**john snelling** · 10-05-2016 15:16

Originally Posted by jbmacek

I agree with Zoe, for biplanes and anything with fine 'wires' FUD is too delicate.
WSF is great. Resilient enough that you can drop them and they will bounce instead of break (usually). And you can't beat the price.

**Zoe Brain** · 10-05-2016 20:27

WGS - use AIM if available, with a few exceptions. Not biplanes. Definitely not floatplanes. Fixed undercarriage is marginal. But they're better than FUD for those. Otherwise WSF if the model you want isn't in the range.

WGF - I prefer WSF. It takes some work, but they don't disintegrate when dropped. Metal ones such as Skytrex do, though the parts are usually salvageable. Resin ones likewise, replace struts with wire on both.

FUD - no. Just no. Undercarriage is the worst, replace with wire etc. Then the struts. Then the wings out of carved styrene. Then glue the pieces of fuselage together. Or keep it under glass for display only. I gave up on FUD when the second N17 undercarriage disintegrated while being washed gently in warm water prior to painting. It was only the wax that was keeping it together.

For monoplanes in WGS, the AIM resin has equal detail, much cheaper, and stronger.

This picture shows a mix of AIM and WSF aircraft.

**Zoe Brain** · 10-05-2016 20:36

Bonus points if you can tell which ones are which.

**brdavis** · 10-05-2016 22:14

Wow thanks for the responses everyone, I was tempted to try FUD, but not anymore. Sounds like you all just saved me a lot of grief.

**Nightbomber** · 10-06-2016 05:48

Originally Posted by brdavis

Wow thanks for the responses everyone, I was tempted to try FUD, but not anymore. Sounds like you all just saved me a lot of grief.

A bunch of people willing to help each other. Just this.

**ReducedAirFact** · 10-09-2016 09:45

FUD/FXD actually works well at smaller scales (e.g. 1/288), and it works well for "display pieces". But for 1/144 gaming pieces I'd agree with the common wisdom of using WSF.

Some day there may be a material that meets all our wants. They've opened up prints in High-Definition Acrylate, but I haven't experimented with yet. That material might work better for WWII planes since there's no chance of them mistaking a strut that's supposed to stay for one that's only there for printing purposes.

**Foz** · 10-09-2016 10:34

Originally Posted by ReducedAirFact

...since there's no chance of them mistaking a strut that's supposed to stay for one that's only there for printing purposes.

Are you 100% sure about that? Are you really really sure.

**BeneathALeadMt** · 10-31-2016 14:59

I have a couple of FUD 1/100 VBCW vehicles from shapeways as they aren't available anywhere else. In terms of fragility - I finished my T1 combat car beautifully then dropped it on my flagstone floor (nothing survives this) it shattered into a many pieces. It was repairable but I wouldn't recommend FUD unless you had no other option especially if you're clumsy, twitchy (like me) or letting anyone who won't be as respectful with your minis as you would be. It is very fine and delicate. Now I've found WoG I'm going to try other materials.