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Thread: Reviresco Pfalz D.III Part Two

  1. #1

    Default Reviresco Pfalz D.III Part Two

    (NOTE - first part of this thread can be found at http://www.wingsofwar.org/forums/sho...D-III-Part-One)

    Finally! Look what arrived in the mail today:

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    The decals were just what I was looking for. All of the film shots had a blueish cast, so regardless of the vcolors under sunlight, in my mind's eye the four-color blue lozenge from 1/144 Direct was just the ticket.

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    Here's a movie still for reference:

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    SO here goes. I'll use the light shade under the top wing since a. I have some and b. I can find no good reference for what it should be and c. this is MY interpretation in any case....!

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    If you're smart and plan ahead you'll get this on in a single piece. If you're me, you'll forget to trim the excess, trace it on the underside, cut it out, and end up with a bare wingtip. Measure once, cut twice.....

    Because I use good old solvaset, and because I can't sit still and stop working, I started on the lower wing, alternating sides, so I could keep the process going while limiting the risk of Flubbing it up with a careless sticky finger.

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    Once I have both wing roots have been started, I can start on the outboard side of the top wing.

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    The just alternate between the three work areas. I trace and trim slightly larger than the flat surface so the solvaset will cause it to curl and cover the edges of the wing.

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    The dicey part was the fuselage. I cut strips just long enough to wrap over the top and sides and nearly touch on the underside, tamp it down dry with tissue, and then carefully trim up the bottom with a fresh sharp exacto. I mean right out of the package or it will drag and tear.

    It took two strips to get to the cockpit. The area forward of the cockpit was done in two pieces I trimmed, fit, trimmed, fit, etc.

    With all of the decals in place, I could FINALLY mount the wings and struts. A small puddle of fast drying ACC and a straight pin as a dropper put just enough at each pin-wing joint.

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    I failed to mention, the pin under the fuselage was cut from a scout altitude peg, and it and the fuselage drilled to accept a brass wire, and ACC'd in place.

    Not bad if I do say so. Needs some touch up painting, add the radiator downtube, and some flat spray. Too late for that tonight. More tomorrow or Saturday.

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  2. #2

  3. #3

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    Pure brilliance and a lovely mini to boot. I now have the confidence in seeing your lovely how to, to try my AEG GIV's. The decals for which I have had for donkies!
    See you on the Dark Side......

  4. #4

  5. #5

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    Raconteur and Master Builder. My Brother, your talents are many. The Pfalz is a Beauty even if she is "Outdated" (be a kind little Bruno!).

  6. #6

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    Excellent result!

    That has given me a boot up the arse to get on with my ones.

  7. #7

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    Very nicely done, like this one a lot.

  8. #8

  9. #9

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    ADDENDUM:
    1. All in all, the white metal Reviresco models can produce a nice looking, usable miniature to complement the Nexus and Ares versions available. The detail is good and with careful preparation, can make a fine looking addition to your Jasta or Squadron. Don't be put off by old molds and flash - it cleans up easily and at this scale, the paint and decals has an outsized impact on the impression of the final model. Just make sure you provide a smooth surface.
    2. Decals - I used the decals provided by eBay store "1/144 Direct" (or search for eBay seller mehusla). They are fairly sturdy and will tolerate some repositioning if done before pressing out the excess water, using your tweezers, a fingernail, or toothpick. Realizing we are not all modelers here, here are my recommendations for handling these decals successfully:
    - Cut as close to final size as possible. dip in water with a fine tweezers but do not leave them in water. once the paper backing starts to "relax" or uncurl, remove them and let them sit on your bench top for a minute or two. if you can move the decal around by touching it, it is ready to apply. I offset the decal just enough that I can grasp the backing with the tweezers, hold it over the surface, and using a fingertip, pull the backing out leaving the decal in place. Adjust its position with a paint brush. I use a 1/4" wide Testors modelmaster brush to position and once in place, press out the underlying excess water. Once in place, I'll use the same brush to over wipe with some Solvaset to get the decal to adhere to the contours, and wrap over the edges of the wings. I cut the decals slightly large, apply the solvaset, a gently start "painting" the extra material down on the edge of the wings. Continue to work this as the decal film softens and conforms to the edge. reapply solvaset if needed. Where you have recessed panel lines (think aileron lines) simply tamp the decal with the narrow edge of the brush to push the softened decal sown into the recess. It doesn't take much. Once you are done with a decal, DO NOT touch it for 5 or ten minutes without risking a tear. That's why I work several areas at once, I can keep going on an upper wing, lower wing, and tail alternately. Or if patience is your thing, walk away and do something else for a while. The 1/144 direct decal sheets are enough for a single good sized scout. I am not sure about a two seater - depends on the span. If you are doing a bomber, you are on your own!

    It's been a blast to do. Of course, I still need to finish detailing, flat spray, build a base....create a maneuver deck.....

    Man oh man, those Ares/Nexus aircraft - what a great value!!!

  10. #10

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    Not bad if I do say so. Needs some touch up painting, add the radiator downtube, and some flat spray. Too late for that tonight. More tomorrow or Saturday.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Dang It! I should have aligned the fuselage lozenges vertically. Next time!

  11. #11

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    They look great nicely done

  12. #12

  13. #13

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    Hey, brother. Did not even notice. I don't think that Bruno should worry - it looks great..



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