Model kits

[Coog]

Up to now I have stuck to getting the WoW models only. But after seeing the great job done with model kits by members on this site, I am considering getting some kit models, particularly Skytrex. With the WoW series only coming out at about one series a year, it could be a long time before some aircraft are available, if at all. I have found in the past when building other types of metal models that quality varies greatly from model to model. Some lack detail, some have flimsy parts, and others just don't fit together well. Any recommendations on what kits are really good and what kits to avoid?

[Flying Officer Kyte]

I can only speak for the ones that I have made. The Reveresco Sopwith Tripe is sound but tricky on the middle wing. The Biff is a dream to do. Skytrex FE 2B is very good, medium hard assembly.whilst the Handley Page is fairly straightforward excepting the undercart which is a pig. See my assembly threads for further info. There are also some good assembly tips by other people more experienced than me on other threads. I'll let you know about the Gotha later.
Rob.

[Khargor]

I've only bought Skytrex models so far and found the Roland to be very easy & sturdy, the Gotha to be relatively easy except for the fiddly struts between the fuselage and the upper wing (though it could be that I've got big fingers!) and the Handley Page to be very straightforward except, as our F.O Kyte has already stated, for the undercarriage which I put off until the last moment due to it looking awkward to build - and it was. Even though I ended up with glued fingers and superglue in my eyelashes building it, the Handley is a really impressive model and well worth the cost.

[gregbond77]

Depends on the kit. Both companies make some good kits and both make some not worth the money or time. If you tell me what specific planes and company, I can(usually) give you my opinion. Plus some build tips, no I'm not an expert, but have constructed nine planes so far( the 10th is almost finished), and thus have some experience. Also recomend you check out Robs planes and advice.

[Dom S]

I'm just about to embark on a couple of Skytrex Sopwith Pups as a warm-up exercise for the bombers, so will try and remember to post a verdict....

[Guntruck]

Skytrex Pups are fairly straightforward. I would advise people to check Revisesco kits if they order them - I once bought six different models and all had problems, either miscast wings (lumps out of the leading edge that needed to be filled) or miscast struts. Given I live the other side of the pond it was easier to fill the wings or make new struts than get replacements, but it has put me off buying Reviresco since then.

Funnily enough, I started a Reviresco Nieuport 11 this week (after filling the wings and making new struts) along with a Skytrex and SRAM one. This should make a nice side by side construction comparison.

[Captain Knowitall]

I've only bought Skytrex models so far and found the Roland to be very easy & sturdy, the Gotha to be relatively easy except for the fiddly struts between the fuselage and the upper wing (though it could be that I've got big fingers!) and the Handley Page to be very straightforward except, as our F.O Kyte has already stated, for the undercarriage which I put off until the last moment due to it looking awkward to build - and it was. Even though I ended up with glued fingers and superglue in my eyelashes building it, the Handley is a really impressive model and well worth the cost.

How in the name of Beelzebub did you manage to get Superglue in your eyelashes?

I know that I'm clumsy but, I've never gotten superglue in my eyelashes....
WOW!

I'm with you mate! I have big fingers too! That's why I have several pair of tweezers and a couple Hemostats. (purchased at my local ACE Hardware and are strictly for "Hobby" use only!)
Or if you have friend or family member that works in the Medical field, perhaps they can get you a couple pair of different sized ones at no cost to you!

Now, if you don't have access to these sources then let me know and I'll see what I can come up with for you.

[Captain Knowitall]

Skytrex Pups are fairly straightforward. I would advise people to check Revisesco kits if they order them - I once bought six different models and all had problems, either miscast wings (lumps out of the leading edge that needed to be filled) or miscast struts. Given I live the other side of the pond it was easier to fill the wings or make new struts than get replacements, but it has put me off buying Reviresco since then.

Funnily enough, I started a Reviresco Nieuport 11 this week (after filling the wings and making new struts) along with a Skytrex and SRAM one. This should make a nice side by side construction comparison.

By all means please provide a detailed report on that!

As I am contemplating purchasing some "Metal" kits.

BTW, has anyone built any of these folks' models?? (MAMOLI METAL 1:144)

There are several on Ebay that I've been considering purchasing as well.

[Guntruck]

How in the name of Beelzebub did you manage to get Superglue in your eyelashes?

I find this quite easy to believe (from the man who had to go to casualty to get a 28mm metal figure unglued from his hand, and is currently sporting a cut just under the eye where I managed to stab myself with a modelling knife last night )

[Captain Knowitall]

I find this quite easy to believe (from the man who had to go to casualty to get a 28mm metal figure unglued from his hand, and is currently sporting a cut just under the eye where I managed to stab myself with a modelling knife last night )

GOOD LORD MAN!!!
Ok, you need to stay away from sharp objects mate!

In the Axis and Allies forumini we have what is called the "Purple finger". Essentially it is the "Purple Heart" for modeling. The image is that of a purple index finger with a bandage on it. If you "Wound" yourself to where blood is drawn, whilst in the process of building a model or making modifications etc...
Then you are awarded one.
If you are wounded a second time then you get a "Blood Clot Cluster" all others beyond the first are awarded one additional Cluster. If you are wounded 5 or more times then you replace the standard cluster with "Gold Blood Clot Clusters"

Perhaps we could have something along those lines here.

[Guntruck]

GOOD LORD MAN!!!
Ok, you need to stay away from sharp objects mate!

In the Axis and Allies forumini we have what is called the "Purple finger". Essentially it is the "Purple Heart" for modeling. The image is that of a purple index finger with a bandage on it. If you "Wound" yourself to where blood is drawn, whilst in the process of building a model or making modifications etc...
Then you are awarded one.
If you are wounded a second time then you get a "Blood Clot Cluster" all others beyond the first are awarded one additional Cluster. If you are wounded 5 or more times then you replace the standard cluster with "Gold Blood Clot Clusters"

Perhaps we could have something along those lines here.

Sounds like fun. Given my propensity to hack lumps off of myself over the years, I should perhaps be awarded the equivalent of the VC (Very Careless)

[Captain Knowitall]

Sounds like fun. Given my propensity to hack lumps off of myself over the years, I should perhaps be awarded the equivalent of the VC (Very Careless)

ROFLMFAOPMP!

Tell me about it. I was banned from ever using a Dremel tool for the better part of a year! I tried desperately to remove my index finger on my right hand with a cut off wheel. (And they call it a Cut Off Wheel for good reason too!! Cause it will cut off damn near anything! Including digits on a hand!)

Oh and always wear safety glasses when ever using a dremel! That I can attest too as well. (cut off wheel disintegrated and a shard of it cut my cheek and another tried to enter my eye... Fortunately I was wearing my regular glasses at the time!!) I use a full face shield now, whenever using a cut off wheel on a dremel.

[Flying Officer Kyte]

ROFLMFAOPMP!

Tell me about it. I was banned from ever using a Dremel tool for the better part of a year! I tried desperately to remove my index finger on my right hand with a cut off wheel. (And they call it a Cut Off Wheel for good reason too!! Cause it will cut off damn near anything! Including digits on a hand!)

Oh and always wear safety glasses when ever using a dremel! That I can attest too as well. (cut off wheel disintegrated and a shard of it cut my cheek and another tried to enter my eye... Fortunately I was wearing my regular glasses at the time!!) I use a full face shield now, whenever using a cut off wheel on a dremel.

What a tail of woe chaps. I can now think myself lucky that I have only lost one joint of my index finger. It didn't seem so lucky at the time.
Rob.

[KiltedWolf]

Yeah... I think I will stick to premade miniatures...

[Captain Knowitall]

I try to, but the lure of building or modifying is too strong to resist... Must resist... Must maintain control... Ahh to Hell with it. You only get to live once....

[Akosion]

(counts fingers and toes, finds ten of each) Hmmm, it seems I'm not modelling hard enough.
Capt. Knowitall's recommendations about safety glasses are definitely to be followed, especially with our beloved WoW minis- I had a cutting wheel shatter on a Roland today, pieces everywhere.
On Mamoli kits, my suggestion is grab'em. I have two on my workbench, and they look beautiful with fine detail and crisp casting, and they look to be quite well engineered too. They've been OOP for years, and they're beginning to pick up value as collectibles like all old kits.
best regards
Aris K.

[Khargor]

How in the name of Beelzebub did you manage to get Superglue in your eyelashes?

It was late in the evening and I'd been building the undercarriage on the Handley which seemed to be taking forever to get right so when it finally seemed to be able to support itself I put it down and without thinking, rubbed my eyes as they were smarting due to the smell of the glue as I'd been leaning over the open bottle (Using Filla-glu HV - excellent superglue but a little bit smelly). A couple of seconds later when I blinked the eyelashes on both eyelids of my right eye stuck briefly so I picked at them to separate them and ended up putting more glue on them as it was on my fingertips as well. Because of this I've now ordered a pot of 'Filla-Glu Undo'!

For anyone thinking of building their own miniatures, its definitely worth checking out the Filla-Glu range as they're really strong glues with differing setting times: http://www.filla-glu.com/page_2019967.html just be careful with what you put in contact with it!

[Captain Knowitall]

It was late in the evening and I'd been building the undercarriage on the Handley which seemed to be taking forever to get right so when it finally seemed to be able to support itself I put it down and without thinking, rubbed my eyes as they were smarting due to the smell of the glue as I'd been leaning over the open bottle (Using Filla-glu HV - excellent superglue but a little bit smelly). A couple of seconds later when I blinked the eyelashes on both eyelids of my right eye stuck briefly so I picked at them to separate them and ended up putting more glue on them as it was on my fingertips as well. Because of this I've now ordered a pot of 'Filla-Glu Undo'!

For anyone thinking of building their own miniatures, its definitely worth checking out the Filla-Glu range as they're really strong glues with differing setting times: http://www.filla-glu.com/page_2019967.html just be careful with what you put in contact with it!

The great thing about super glue is that it will adhere to just about anything.
Especially skin!!

Did you know there is a Medical grade of superglue? I didn't know that until I went to the Emergency with a bad gash on my arm. The nurse came in with this bottle and put on her mask, handed me a mask to put on, then opened the bottle and I got a tell-tale whiff of super glue.

I inquired about it and she said that it was a medical grade version of the good ol' superglue!
Damn if it didn't work! And since there were no sutures to remove, it literally would absorb into the body and become inert.

It stung like the Devil at first but, hey it stopped the bleeding and closed up the wound!

So now if I ever slice my finger with a sharp edged instrument, I just get out the good ol super glue! Works like a charm!!!

[Captain Knowitall]

(counts fingers and toes, finds ten of each) Hmmm, it seems I'm not modelling hard enough.
Capt. Knowitall's recommendations about safety glasses are definitely to be followed, especially with our beloved WoW minis- I had a cutting wheel shatter on a Roland today, pieces everywhere.
On Mamoli kits, my suggestion is grab'em. I have two on my workbench, and they look beautiful with fine detail and crisp casting, and they look to be quite well engineered too. They've been OOP for years, and they're beginning to pick up value as collectibles like all old kits.
best regards
Aris K.

You have ten each too? And here I thought that I was short by two....

[HardRock]

Super Glue was invented for medical use, combat surgery. We get the benefits of someone using it for unauthorized purposes and realizing the market potential. Just don't use an accelerator on your wound, you thought it stung before! It feels like a burning sensation on un-injured skin, much less an open wound.

[ara398]

...and just to cheer everyone up - superglue accelerator is also carcenogenic. (reasonably safe if used in an extremely well ventilated area and don't get it on your skin).

Happy modelling

Adrian

[Captain Knowitall]

Super Glue was invented for medical use, combat surgery. We get the benefits of someone using it for unauthorized purposes and realizing the market potential. Just don't use an accelerator on your wound, you thought it stung before! It feels like a burning sensation on un-injured skin, much less an open wound.

Yer right! Now I remember! Damn Partimers is kicking in again.

[Coog]

Thanks everyone for the input. The Pup is one model in which I am very interested. I've never been able to grow fond of the Nieuports for those mid-war years. I'll keep an eye out for Dom's report on his Pup builds. Also if anyone knows were I can find a Salmson 2 kit, I would appreciate the information. I seriously doubt Nexus will produce one before series 8, if ever at all, and I would like one to round out my collection of USAS aircraft.

[Captain Knowitall]

Need some paint schemes? http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=...ed=0CCsQ9QEwAw

[Captain Knowitall]

Here's one by Reviresco> http://www.tin-soldier.com/cgi-bin/u...ml&pid=SalSA-2
And you can make it yours for only $10 + S&H!!

[chub]

GOOD LORD MAN!!!
Ok, you need to stay away from sharp objects mate!

In the Axis and Allies forumini we have what is called the "Purple finger". Essentially it is the "Purple Heart" for modeling. The image is that of a purple index finger with a bandage on it. If you "Wound" yourself to where blood is drawn, whilst in the process of building a model or making modifications etc...
Then you are awarded one.
If you are wounded a second time then you get a "Blood Clot Cluster" all others beyond the first are awarded one additional Cluster. If you are wounded 5 or more times then you replace the standard cluster with "Gold Blood Clot Clusters"

Perhaps we could have something along those lines here.

I demand a 'Purple Finger' as I have just managed to jam an inch of needle file int my leg, just above my left knee @*&*@*&@

[Flying Officer Kyte]

I demand a 'Purple Finger' as I have just managed to jam an inch of needle file int my leg, just above my left knee @*&*@*&@

Now that is impressive. Would you care to explain how you managed that feat of manual dexterity?
Rob.

[MayorJim]

Model kits are great..for some. For me, no time, no patience, no room, no skill...plus, it takes away from actually playing with the darn things. I greatly admire those who can build and paint...my neighbor is absolutely fantastic (but he does infantry and cavalry...no planes)...and he's in his 80's!! If I have spare time between flights, I'd rather catch up on my drinking

[HardRock]

I can't afford to drink, need more figures. Sides it messes with the paint jobs.

[Captain Knowitall]

I demand a 'Purple Finger' as I have just managed to jam an inch of needle file int my leg, just above my left knee @*&*@*&@

OK! Keep all sharp AND POINTY objects away from Chub!!!

[chub]

Now that is impressive. Would you care to explain how you managed that feat of manual dexterity?
Rob.

Lets just say drink and modelling doesnt mix

[Bedlam]

I was going to do a mini review of some different makes of model, but reading this thread I think I should do a field first-aid course instead.

OK. Medic on stand by. Here we go...

I've just built a few models by three different suppliers - SRAM, Skytrex and Reviresco. I have also closely examined the ones I have yet to build.

Broadly speaking SRAM are expensive, hard to find, fiddly and detailed. Sytrex are less fiddly, adequately detailed and heavy. Reveiresco are similar but seem to have more parts, moderately detailed and heavy. Mine are also cast from a very soft metal which bends easily, but that might just be that batch.

The Skytrex models are the closest visual match for the WoW minis, with heavily sculpted ribs and over-engineered strutting.

Reviresco models use a novel approach to representing the canvas detail, employing a trompe l'oeil effect on the all-over decals (sold separately) which looks very attractive. It doesn't really match the WoW minis, but it's very well done, and the decals are very good quality. Ideal if you don't like painting, and there's a huge range of models and colour schemes.

SRAM are modeller's models and require a higher degree of skill to build. They are also very nice when finished. See below:



This Tripe was pretty easy by SRAM standards. The kit is resin and the only 'instructions' are a 1/144 three-view, which is pretty handy for getting the stagger on the wings right. Top and bottom wings are each one piece, with the middle in two parts. The only tricky bit was getting the cabane struts in the right place. I had to refer to a Windsock Data Sheet for that. Luckily I'm an obsessive nerd and just happened to have one lying about...

The undercarriage struts were bent from a bit of thin piano wire using the 3-view as a guide. A paper clip would work just as well.

I went with a fairly green interpretation of PC10 for this mid-war aircraft. It's GW Catachan green with a thinned wash of Devlan Mud to bring out the detail. The CDL underside is P3 Menoth White Basecoat, but GW Bleached Bone is the same colour (but not as nice paint IMO). The paint job is based on the WoW card of Robert Little's aircraft, using some of the supplied decals.

Those decals are not great. They didn't stick very well and the roundels are slightly wobbly round the edges. Dom's Decals came to the rescue, along with Klear floor polish and Micro Sol.

The finished model is light and suprisingly robust. It's been dropped and just floats to the ground. It's fine for gaming and doesn't fall over. The flight peg is a bit of whittled-bamboo kebab-skewer.

And from the sublime to the ridiculous:




This is my SRAM/scratch build representation of the aircraft (5964) flown by Maj. Lanoe Hawker on the day he was shot down. You'll notice it doesn't match the WoW card. I made use of some recent research available on the web, and this would seem to be the most likely configuration of 5964 on that day. I included the weird sawtooth pattern under the nacelle, which was unique to 24 Sqn's aircraft. I need to add the tail number, but my black printer cartridge has run out!

This 'kit' is not for the faint-hearted. You get the wings, tailplane, rudder and nacelle / engine. ALL the strutting, including the clothes dryer holding the tail on is scratch built from 1mm styrene rod. It took FOREVER. The 3-view is essential, and a Windsock would have been handy. It was a nice modelling challenge, but given that Skytrex make a DH2 which is cheaper and more complete, it's not really worth the bother if all you want is to get a DH2 on the table. I've got the Skytrex one waiting to be built, so I'll see how it compares.

Colour scheme is as for the Tripe, but with a bit more Devlan Mud. Decals are from Dom again, as the ones supplied were utterly crap. They aren't actually DayGlo, the flash has just caught them funny.

The end result works well alongside the WoW minis and is light and strong enough for sensible play. It's certainly more drop-resistant than the metal models.

[Coog]

Very, very nice models John! Thanks for the detailed comparisons.

[gregbond77]

Nice work John!!

[rkhlegacy]

Wow! Great work John! Really nice repaints.

[Bedlam]

Skytrex minis have the distinct advantage for me of being made an hour's drive away, so I don't have to worry about models getting stuck at customs.

On looking inside the packet they are well cast and quite chunky. And heavy. A misplaced Gotha could actually cause bodily harm.

Here's an example:



Needing serial numbers again, this one will be my Immelman EIII.

It was a doddle to build. Just superglue the landing gear and propeller on. Job done.

The CDL surfaces are P3 Menoth White Basecoat with a very light wash of Gryphon Sepia. Once dry I drybrushed the ribs lightly with a 3:1 Menoth White Basecoat / Menoth White Highlight mix. Non-obsessive people will be satisfied with just Menoth White Base. Pilot's goggles are GW chainmail, with progressively lightening shades of green on the lenses.

Decals from Dom.

I like this model. It was easy, it's light enough that it doesn't fall over and it matches the WoW minis really well.

Other Skytrex minis I'm working on include a Bristol F2b Fighter and a Gotha. Both are nicely cast, adequately detailed and heavy. I built the Brisfit using styrene rod instead of the supplied struts and it's pretty rigid. However, like every other model I've ever built, this one ended up on the floor. It didn't come out of it well. Not because there's anything wrong with the model - it's just heavy enough to hurt itself. Fortunately it bent back into shape. It's also a bit wobbly on a regular flight stand, but it's quite a big aircraft so that's fair enough.

The Gotha is very heavy. If you're reading this Skytrex, we'd really like it if you made the wings from resin. It's a lovely model and I'm working on some night camo lozenge decals. Once I get them right, I'll upload the file so anyone can print them on decal paper. Hopefully this weekend.

Then we have the Reviresco offering of the same aircraft:



The kits took a little while to arrive from across the water, mostly because HM customs took an unhealthy interest in them. John from Reviresco kept me informed about delivery charges, and the customer service he showed was faultless.

This particular kit hasn't been my favourite. The little Fokker took the best part of a day to put together. Unlike the Skytrex EIII, the wings are separate, as is the pilot, engine cowling (why?), landing gear, tail skid and unbelievably fiddly rudder.

I then discovered why the instructions advise you to put the decals on first. In fairness, on this kit it's best to build most of it but leave the undercarriage and prop off. The former gets in the way and the latter will just get bent.

The decals are nicely printed on quality decal paper (I wish I knew what brand he uses), and are perfectly sized. However, they do still need a little painting round the edges to get the finish shown above.

Everyone I asked prefers this one to the Skytrex because it's more colourful. Personally it's not my bag.

I've also got the Friedrichshafen G-III composite kit. Again, the printing is excellent, but I think I'll build the card parts in plasticard.

[IRM]

Interesting comparisons, and very nicely put together. Puts my Frankenstein's Monsters to shame

[Warhorse47]

Thanks for the detailed reports gentlemen. Very much appreciated.

[Flying Officer Kyte]

I have spoken to Skytrex about resin wings for the Gotha and they said that is the way they are thinking as well. Any more good ideas and I will pass them on.
Rob.

[Guntruck]

Wow, John, those are great looking models. Like you, I'm not exactly enamoured with the Riveresco E.III. finish, and I question the need for producing a decal that represents a plain finish such as the fabric. I would prefer just the national markings and any other emblems rather than the whole fuselage covering. Lozenge finish is another different ballgame though, so no problems with a decal for the fuselage cover in this case.

Having said that, John McEwen does some really nice decals for his models and it is worth having a look at these if you haven't already.

The walkthrough of the build process for the DH2 and Triplane was interesting. I was about to slap the SRAM Triplane fuselage markings on a Skytrex kit. What exactly is wrong with them (too thin, brittle)?

I've just finished building 3 Nieuport 11s from Reviresco, Skytrex and SRAM, so once I've slapped some warpaint on them I'll do a similar construction walkthrough.

[Bedlam]

The problem I found with my SRAM Tripe markings was that they just wouldn't stick! Also the red cross doesn't take into account the fact that the fuselage is tapered, so when you wrap it around it's not vertical on the sides. I had to cut it up and stick it on in bits. The roundels were OK but looked a bit wobbly round the edges compared with Dom's. With patience, Klear and Micro Sol they worked well enough.

The markings included with the DH2 are a different story. They were grainy, out of register and just plain nasty.

I've got Reviresco and Skytrex Sopwith Triplanes to build, so I can do a three-way comparison of those.

All-over decals is a great idea on some models - especially those with lozenge pattern camo. It just doesn't work for me on the EIII. Of course you don't have to use the decal sheet - it's purchased separately, which is a good idea.

Rob, I also sent a message to Skytrex about resin wings but they haven't got back to me. Hopefully if enough of us mention it, it will happen. It has to be a plus for them - they will sell more models AND save on expensive metal. Win-win.

[Guntruck]

I have spoken to Skytrex about resin wings for the Gotha and they said that is the way they are thinking as well. Any more good ideas and I will pass them on.
Rob.

The AEG G.IV also has a fair amount of metal in the wings so this might be a candidate for a resin makeover. They may also wish to tone down the ribbed effect on the wings a bit, which is over-exagerated on the 0/400 kits.

However, if Skytrex is going to get serious and start making a few more aircraft, they wouldn't go far wrong if they re-mastered some of their existing range, a lot of which are now showing their age.

[gregbond77]

I have spoken to Skytrex about resin wings for the Gotha and they said that is the way they are thinking as well. Any more good ideas and I will pass them on.
Rob.

Make the cowlings, on rotary engined aircraft, out of resin with more detail. To me this is the worst aspect of Skytex kits. Fix the undercarriage another weak spot with their kits.

[gregbond77]

[QUOTE=Bedlam;29978]Skytrex minis have the distinct advantage for me of being made an hour's drive away, so I don't have to worry about models getting stuck at customs.

On looking inside the packet they are well cast and quite chunky. And heavy. A misplaced Gotha could actually cause bodily harm.

Here's an example:



Needing serial numbers again, this one will be my Immelman EIII.

It was a doddle to build. Just superglue the landing gear and propeller on. Job done.

The CDL surfaces are P3 Menoth White Basecoat with a very light wash of Gryphon Sepia. Once dry I drybrushed the ribs lightly with a 3:1 Menoth White Basecoat / Menoth White Highlight mix. Non-obsessive people will be satisfied with just Menoth White Base. Pilot's goggles are GW chainmail, with progressively lightening shades of green on the lenses.

Decals from Dom.

I like this model. It was easy, it's light enough that it doesn't fall over and it matches the WoW minis really well.

Then we have the Reverisco offering of the same aircraft:





This particular kit hasn't been my favourite. The little Fokker took the best part of a day to put together. Unlike the Skytrex EIII, the wings are separate, as is the pilot, engine cowling (why?), landing gear, tail skid and unbelievably fiddly rudder.

I then discovered why the instructions advise you to put the decals on first. In fairness, on this kit it's best to build most of it but leave the undercarriage and prop off. The former gets in the way and the latter will just get bent.

The decals are nicely printed on quality decal paper (I wish I knew what brand he uses), and are perfectly sized. However, they do still need a little painting round the edges to get the finish shown above.

Everyone I asked prefers this one to the Skytrex because it's more colourful. Personally it's not my bag.



John, would the Reviresco E-III cowling fit the skytrex E-III, if you sanded the skytrex cowling off?

[Bedlam]

Probably, but I doubt you'd gain much. Neither of the engines are particularly detailed, being about the size of a mouse dropping. The SRAM resin engines are even worse. I basically whittled the DH2 engine out of a lump of resin.

The undercarriage is always going to be tricky as it's so spindly. The Skytrex EIII's undercarriage was excellent, the Reviresco's was horrible, the difference being the crispness of the casting. The EIII has an unusual undercarriage though. On aircraft with the more usual "two bent bits and an axle" arrangement I use piano wire or paper clip glued into holes drilled in the fuselage. I broke with that policy for the Skytrex Bristol Fighter as the rear strut attaches to the lower wing. The supplied parts did need to be comprehensively sworn in.

[Pope]

...and just to cheer everyone up - superglue accelerator is also carcenogenic. (reasonably safe if used in an extremely well ventilated area and don't get it on your skin).

Happy modelling

Adrian

I see, so I get the wife to hold the bits to gether that need superglue accelerator put on them

On a more serious note I hope to have closer look at Shaun's models next week and then will think about what to go for or if I'll stick with WoW and repaints.

[Schwerpunkt]

I have built the SRAM Albatros CIII (twice) and most of the process was fine. The only truly fiddly bit was the undercarriage structure which I scratch-built out of styrene rod.

I have the SRAM Gotha GIV on its way at the moment and will let you know what that is like.

The Reviresco Friedrichshafen GIII is a nice kit. One tip, when making the fuselage have it resting upside down to dry. The tail of mine 'drooped' so that the underside presented a smooth line from fore to aft rather than the top. Not hugely noticeable on the table, and probably only an error I would make.

[bumblie3]

John,
Thanks for the photos and information. Great stuff.
John.(Bumblie3)

[gregbond77]

Probably, but I doubt you'd gain much. Neither of the engines are particularly detailed, being about the size of a mouse dropping. The SRAM resin engines are even worse. I basically whittled the DH2 engine out of a lump of resin.

The undercarriage is always going to be tricky as it's so spindly. The Skytrex EIII's undercarriage was excellent, the Reviresco's was horrible, the difference being the crispness of the casting. The EIII has an unusual undercarriage though. On aircraft with the more usual "two bent bits and an axle" arrangement I use piano wire or paper clip glued into holes drilled in the fuselage. I broke with that policy for the Skytrex Bristol Fighter as the rear strut attaches to the lower wing. The supplied parts did need to be comprehensively sworn in.

John, thanks for the info. I think I might try a Skytrex E-III and see if the Nieuport 11 cowling will fit.

[Flying Officer Kyte]

However, if Skytrex is going to get serious and start making a few more aircraft, they wouldn't go far wrong if they re-mastered some of their existing range, a lot of which are now showing their age.

I was told that this is in the pipeline, as it is easier to remodel and use the more advanced methods now available than to mess about trying to improve the old worn out masters. So we can live in hope.
Rob.