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Thread: need painting advice

  1. #1

    Default need painting advice

    ok guys i need some advice from you modelers/repainters. ive been working on some early b17s, one B model i wanted to do something of a fantasy paint scheme that ive always though an early 17 would look good in. the old aircorp blue and gold, blue fuselage and yellow flight and control surfaces. anyway i tried masking using some blue painters tape when i was doing the blue fuselage after doing the wings and control surfaces. the tape did not live up to expectations and bled through rather badly in places. any ideas how to salvage the paintwork?
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    the other to are going to be the swoose D model and an early E model as flown into pearl harbor.

  2. #2

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    Phillip

    Look for some Tamiya masking tape it comes in various widths and i always get good results form it.


    Rich

  3. #3

    Default

    2nd vote for Tamiya tape.

  4. #4

    Default

    cool thanks guys! but does anyone have any suggestions on how to remove or cover up the paint thats bled through on the mini?

  5. #5

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    Phillip

    That depends on the paint. Is this one of the 200 scale Ares minis, or a model? I have had great success with easy off oven cleaner. I have had too strip off two paint jobs on 144 scale planes that i came out bad the first time. The Easy off removed most of the paint an old toothbrush removed most of paint in the panel lines.


    Rich

  6. #6

    matt56's Avatar May you forever fly in blue skies.
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    Default

    Did you use acrylics or oil-based paints? It's going to depend on whether the paint is sitting on top of the bottom color or actually bonded to it in the drying process, I think. Depending on how "thick" the build-up of the 'bleed' is, Phil, you might try gently scraping it off with a sharp #11 xacto blade on your knife. I'd hold the knife perpendicular to the surface and gently move it over the paint you want to remove - it may shave it away...but your blue and yellow are so vibrant that it would be a real chore to actually try and even things up by painting over. Rich's idea of cleaning it off and starting over (unfortunate as it sounds) may be your fall-back position.

    Good luck!

    All the best,
    Matt

  7. #7

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    Phillip

    Now you know why i asked what paint you used! If my stripping method is used. 1: Remove all clear parts. 2: Place model a container big enough to fit model. 3:Spray the easy off on the model and allow it to do it`s thing, give it ten minutes. Spray on some more, put on some rubber gloves and gently rub the paint. [ the new easy off is safe to breath and skin contact safe, the gloves jeep the mess off] you my need a piece of non abrasive cleaning paid and an old tooth brush in the fine lines. If clean rinse in warm water and allow to thoroughly dry. I prime coat everything and keep a can of Tamiya primer handy. Give it a light coat and try again.

    Rich

  8. #8

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by richard m schwab View Post
    Phillip

    Now you know why i asked what paint you used! If my stripping method is used. 1: Remove all clear parts. 2: Place model a container big enough to fit model. 3:Spray the easy off on the model and allow it to do it`s thing, give it ten minutes. Spray on some more, put on some rubber gloves and gently rub the paint. [ the new easy off is safe to breath and skin contact safe, the gloves jeep the mess off] you my need a piece of non abrasive cleaning paid and an old tooth brush in the fine lines. If clean rinse in warm water and allow to thoroughly dry. I prime coat everything and keep a can of Tamiya primer handy. Give it a light coat and try again.

    Rich

    Is there a risk of the easy off affecting the plastic?

    I've used brake fluid, but:
    1) requires a good soaking,
    2) will loosen any glue bonds, and
    3) haven't tried it with clear plastic.

  9. #9

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    Allen

    I have never had a problem with the New Easy Off and plastic. They made a safe bio degradable version four years ago. I have not tried it on clear parts though. The best thing is something called Lizard Grin. It is a reusable paste the it also skin and lung safe. Brake fluid on the other hand? Here are some shots of a Sweet kit i had started. The green is over tan and the bumps are a masking material that would not come off. The second trip came out better!

    Rich


    Rich
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 100_3492.jpg   100_3396.jpg   000_0075.jpg  

  10. #10

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by richard m schwab View Post
    Phillip

    That depends on the paint. Is this one of the 200 scale Ares minis, or a model? I have had great success with easy off oven cleaner. I have had too strip off two paint jobs on 144 scale planes that i came out bad the first time. The Easy off removed most of the paint an old toothbrush removed most of paint in the panel lines.


    Rich
    i used spray enamels (testors) and its one of clippers wonderful creations so i dont really know how it would hold up to stripping. theres no clear parts to worry about though. i primed it with stuff i got at walmart, krylon i think but i dont really recall as i dont have the can anymore. it took a couple coats to get a nice even surface so its on there a bit thick.

  11. #11

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by matt56 View Post
    Did you use acrylics or oil-based paints? It's going to depend on whether the paint is sitting on top of the bottom color or actually bonded to it in the drying process, I think. Depending on how "thick" the build-up of the 'bleed' is, Phil, you might try gently scraping it off with a sharp #11 xacto blade on your knife. I'd hold the knife perpendicular to the surface and gently move it over the paint you want to remove - it may shave it away...but your blue and yellow are so vibrant that it would be a real chore to actually try and even things up by painting over. Rich's idea of cleaning it off and starting over (unfortunate as it sounds) may be your fall-back position.

    Good luck!

    All the best,
    Matt
    i did try scraping it gingerly on one small area and wasnt satisfied by the results. now that a strip and repaint seems likely ill give it another try a bit harder as a last ditch attempt before stripping. thanks alot for the assistance guys

  12. #12

    Default

    If you ask me about the paint choice, I shall say: acrylics! water thinned, very fast drying, easy to airspray! Stay away from enamels, that are thick, hard to use in airbrushing, dry very slowly and do not forget your errors. Brrr!

    This is the outcome hard to obtain with enamels.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    <img src=http://www.wingsofwar.org/forums/image.php?type=sigpic&userid=2554&dateline=1409073309 border=0 alt= />
    "We do not stop playing when we get old, but we get old when we stop playing."

  13. #13

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    Phillip

    Did you contact David and ask about the Easy Off compatibility? When i paint something like that i gloss coat between masking and allow that to cure for a day.
    I am not a master modeler, i know what works for me! I am working on four 144 ME-109`s two F2 and two G6`s. I primed, then did the underside. Gloss coated that waited a day. Masked off for the first of two topside colors sprayed it and gloss coated it after drying. The next day i masked off for the third top color and sprayed that. By this time the models ware balls of tape. I striped off all the tape. I found only two bleed through areas. I gloss coated again and it is time for decals! Followed by a coat of gloss and at least two coats of dull coat!
    Rich

  14. #14

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Nightbomber View Post
    If you ask me about the paint choice, I shall say: acrylics! water thinned, very fast drying, easy to airspray! Stay away from enamels, that are thick, hard to use in airbrushing, dry very slowly and do not forget your errors. Brrr!

    This is the outcome hard to obtain with enamels.
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20150419_135436.jpg 
Views:	34 
Size:	199.0 KB 
ID:	163478
    ill probably switch eventually but for now enamals are what ive got to work with. great work btw

  15. #15

    Default

    What Rich wrote is typical for enamel usage. With acrylics, you are ready for a next layer of paint/varnish after 20 minutes...
    <img src=http://www.wingsofwar.org/forums/image.php?type=sigpic&userid=2554&dateline=1409073309 border=0 alt= />
    "We do not stop playing when we get old, but we get old when we stop playing."

  16. #16

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by richard m schwab View Post
    Phillip

    Did you contact David and ask about the Easy Off compatibility? When i paint something like that i gloss coat between masking and allow that to cure for a day.
    I am not a master modeler, i know what works for me! I am working on four 144 ME-109`s two F2 and two G6`s. I primed, then did the underside. Gloss coated that waited a day. Masked off for the first of two topside colors sprayed it and gloss coated it after drying. The next day i masked off for the third top color and sprayed that. By this time the models ware balls of tape. I striped off all the tape. I found only two bleed through areas. I gloss coated again and it is time for decals! Followed by a coat of gloss and at least two coats of dull coat!
    Rich
    never thought of that ill have to try it. nice work on the italian bird btw!!!!

  17. #17

    Smile

    For decades i used only Poly S Acrylics starting in the early 70. This was for brush figure painting for the most part. I do not like the way they airbrush, achieving a consistent finish and frequent clogging was a pain. This encouraged me to try enamels when airbrushing. I get a better finished model with enamels.



    Rich
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails P3100010.jpg   P3210035.jpg   P1210002.jpg   P6230302.jpg  

  18. #18

    Default

    Another good product for stripping acrylics is Simple Green. I've had good success by soaking the model for 2-3 hours and then scrubbing with a soft (old) toothbrush.



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