Advice re applying decals please

[Prodromoi]

I'm taking the plunge and have started a couple of (admittedly minor) repaints. When I've got that far, I have some of Dom's very nice looking decals to apply.

My intention originally had been to use Microsol and Microset to help get the decals on and secure, then Vallejo matt varnish (brush, not spray) to protect them. However I've seen a few threads that mention gloss varnish being used under the decal to create a smooth surface, and/or over the decal as protection before the matt varnishing.

So my question rather boils down to this:
Is the Microsol/Microset/matt varnish approach a good one, or should I get a gloss varnish too - and if so, for under or over the decal or both? If gloss varnish is recommended, which one is preferred (and available in the UK)? (Having had poor experiences with aerosol gloss varnishes giving a 'spotty/bumpy' finish in the past, I would tend towards a brush-applied one if I'd need to use it.)

Thanks in advance.
A

[Guntruck]

Gloss varnish first otherwise you risk the decal carrier film being visible. I use Xtracrylix gloss varnish from Hannants, but obviously others will do just as well, as will liquid floor polish, the name of which escapes me despite the fact I have a big bottle of it sitting on my shelf at home.

I sometimes use Microset, but have never needed to use Microsol to get a decal to adhere to a surface. Finish of with a coat of matt varnish - Testor's Dullcote is my weapon of choice.

[Flying Officer Kyte]

Is this the stuff you mean Gunners.
Johnson's Klear floor polish.
Rob.

[Flying Officer Kyte]

Having just trawled through 500 posts on decals without finding the thread I know exists where Zoe and other experts discussed the best methods of applying them, I felt it was time for us to put together a How To on this subject for the Home page. It also looks as if the next most frequently asked questions are on decal removal, and making your own. Whilst we have fragmented answers to all these questions, it would save a lot of time and trouble if they were all collected in one place.
Any takers for producing the Concise illustrated guide to decaling?
Rob.

[Prodromoi]

Having just trawled through 500 posts on decals without finding the thread I know exists where Zoe and other experts discussed the best methods of applying them, I felt it was time for us to put together a How To on this subject for the Home page. It also looks as if the next most frequently asked questions are on decal removal, and making your own. Whilst we have fragmented answers to all these questions, it would save a lot of time and trouble if they were all collected in one place.
Any takers for producing the Concise illustrated guide to decaling?
Rob.

Excellent idea. I was wading through around ten to fifteen threads looking for recommendations and a consensus this morning, having woken up about 3am and couldn't get back to sleep! There's a lot of good info out there, but hunting it down and applying it to the right questions is a task. I also read through several of the "DIY decal" threads, and my heavens, making your own decals seems to be beset with woe!

[Prodromoi]

Thanks for the replies so far. Still happy for other suggestions!

I'll place an order for some gloss today, or nip out and see if I can find some Klear at B&Q...
EDIT:
Except of course it seems to have been discontinued!
http://georgedentmodelmaker.blogspot...things-up.html

Has anyone tried the 'new' version mentioned in this article, and if so, how was it?

[flash]

I usually put Klear on the model - affix decal with decalfix - allow to thoroughly dry, coat with Klear again to protect them and then use an acryllic Matt varnish. Probably don't have to tell you but don't use anything with any solvent in or the decals will be destroyed !

[Guntruck]

Is this the stuff you mean Gunners.
Johnson's Klear floor polish.
Rob.

Yep, that's the stuff

[Timmo UK]

I just use Vallejo gloss varnish – easy to get hold of and it works. First I put down two thin coats of gloss varnish applied with a brush. One coat seals the surface the second makes it really glossy, allow at least 24 hours between coats. I let this double layer dry for 48 hours minimum. I cut the decals either with a new scalpel blade or a sharp small pair of scissors, those sold for tying fishing flies are ideal. Soak in warm water, a shallow dish with bit of card under one edge gives you a wet 'pool' and a damp area so you can choose how fast you want your decals to lift off their backing. When the decal just lifts move it to the damp area just in the edge of the water and it'll lift completely without floating away.

Put Micro Set on the model, get a pair of fine pointed tweezers (Wilder do excellent ones) pick up the decal with the tweezers. If you can nudge it slightly off its backing paper you'll be able to pick it up by the paper. Apply the decal, gently slipping it off the paper into position with a fine brush. Nudge and tweak into place with a fine brush. Leave it, check from several angles and relative to your reference then let it dry. Apply Micro Sol to hide the edges and to get it to really bed down into the model. Let it dry. Some shapes might need more MicroSol. Let it dry and leave it for 10+ hours. With a small clean brush put a little water over the decal gently cleansing it of any remaining Micro Sol that will resist varnish. Give a coat of Acrylic gloss varnish. Let it dry for a few hours then apply another coat. Let dry for 48+ hours, then matt varnish. Job done.

[Flying Helmut]

Has anyone tried the 'new' version mentioned in this article, and if so, how was it?

Yes, that's the bottle I have.
Couldn't find it in B&Q or Homebase, but found it in my local Hardware store!

I have used it to soak Shapeways planes, to make them easier to paint and less absorbent of acrylic paint!

It stinks a bit, and looks a bit milky, but it does dry a transparent colourless gloss.


I haven't used it as a foundation for decals as yet - I currently use Vallejo Gloss varnish.

The varnish has several functions;

1) it ensures that the paint under the decal is protected.

2) it ensures a uniform paint colour under and around transparent areas of decal.
(years ago, when I applied decals direct to paintwork and then varnished over, I discovered that some varnishes alter the finish colour of the paint! On WW2 Pacific US aircraft, the blue paint under the decal, including the clear surround, was protected from the varnish, and maintained its colour; the exposed paint around the decal darkened a couple of shades, and finished up making the decal look both obvious, and WEIRD!)

3) it provides a smooth, "slippery" surface when Microset is applied, and this make it easy to slide the decal around into the desired position.

4) it protects the "finished" decal from any wear and tear of handling the model.
(gloss varnishes are often, but not always, much more hard-wearing than matt varnish; models protected solely by matt varnish can suffer from the paint being exposed and rubbed off owing to frequent handling - if a decal is exposed, it will flake off!)

5) some matt varnishes have a slight sheen to them when used alone - a layer of gloss varnish beneath the matt often results in a purer Matt finish.


I use a single layer of Vallejo Gloss varnish, and allow it to dry overnight. I position the decal using a little Microset, applied with a brush, to make the decal easy to slide around into place. About an hour after placement I apply a little Microsol, and leave this to dry - it "melts" the decal into nooks and crannies; particularly useful for getting lozenge decal to settle flat between wing ribs. Sometimes, a second application of Microsol is required; it is extremely useful for 'persuading' wing lozenge to bend around a leading edge and adhere to the underside of a wing (some lozenge decal is printed on quite thick, inflexible decal paper, and simply will NOT curve around a leading edge without chemical help!). It DOES shrink the decal slightly if there are multiple wing ribs - if applying a large slab of lozenge decal to a wing surface, I recommend cutting the decal a bit too big, so that it will not leave edges exposed when it dries (which call for lozenge PAINTING to fill the gaps - NOT recommended!). When satisfied with the decal 'melt' I apply a single coat of Vallejo Gloss varnish and leave to dry overnight. Finally, two coats of Vallejo Matt varnish, 6 hours apart.

[Prodromoi]

Thanks for the input and advice chaps.

I popped out on Saturday and picked up some gloss varnish (Vallejo again, as I've been happy with the paints so far). Over the weekend I got the decals off (MicroSet didn't even make an impact - the decals on the Ares planes are seriously stuck on; varnished I suspect) so I had to carefully scrape them off. Then came the repainting - with some agonies over the decisions, but more of this later; I'll post pictures elsewhere when everything's finished. Currently the planes are in a box with the first coat of gloss varnish drying on the to-be-adorned-with-decals areas.

With the various coats and drying times it's probably going to be about a week before they're ready to unveil. Time to do the new cards in the meantime...

[Timmo UK]

I often find it easier to leave the markings in place. Sometimes they aren't actually decals at all but printed on or a complete decal skin in some cases. I know railway modellers use a fibreglass pencil for removing decals prior to renumbering. I've not used one so can't comment but it may be worth trying.

I'm finding I'm getting far better quality base when airbrushing primer onto the model over brush painting. I've only really just got into using the airbrush on these but wish I'd done so before. The difference win the quality of finish can be noticeable. I actually enjoy the process of taking the model apart and masking up sections. The fact that I might work a batch of planes over a month or more really doesn't bother me. I've enough to play with and I've learnt that aqueous paints really need to dry hard to work well so there's no point in rushing as it can compromise the long-term integrity of the paint work.
I also paint wargames figures (I guess like a lot of us here?) so I tend to always have a couple of planes on the go for variety whilst doing figures as well.