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Thread: Wingnut Wings 1/32 Sopwith Snipe Build Diary

  1. #1

    Default Wingnut Wings 1/32 Sopwith Snipe Build Diary

    Well as some of you know I've received a few Wingnut Wings kits as birthday presents and also a impulse purchase by my wife to get free parking at the shopping mall..... yeah, couldn't work that one out either.

    Anyway I thought I would document the build here for you guys to follow, some of the images are low res taken with the phone and several with the macro lens on the Nikon D500.

    So I hope you all enjoy and if there is further interest I will document more builds!

    August 27th Day 1:

    Wood! Lot's of it!

    Having looked on the internet at all the various types of techniques for wood grain effect I settled for the one I could do right now without having to go out and buy more paints.

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    August 28th, Day 2

    So time to take the plunge, it's been a very long time since I did a project like this so a little bit nervous. Thankfully I had the Vallom kits to get me in the right mind set.

    With the basics down for the fuel tank.

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    Time to move on to the frame work of the cockpit and then add shadowing and other details to the parts. (So far only the fuel tank base grey colour was airbrushed everything else was hand painted.

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    I decided to slot the pieces together to see if the grain effect was universal throughout the build - sadly the second half went wrong and I had to take it all the way back down to the base bare plastic again.

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    August 29th, Day 3 It's my Birthday!

    Feeling fresh and loaded with coffee I started straight away on the second half of the frame that had gone wrong the day before, it was tricky as I now need to replicate the style I used the previous day.

    NOTE: When doing a build it's always best to do batches, for instance if you are working on parts that are polished aluminum or steel its best to do them all at the same time so the effect is universal throughout the model.

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    Happy with the results on this one too! Let's see how they match up with the other wooden cockpit frame.

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    While I was waiting I also went about threading the bracing and control wires in the frame, yoke and yaw of the aircraft. Note: this is not part of the official kit and all holes had to be drilled.

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    Next up was the cabling, I used carbon filament fishing line as it looks amazing without paint and with a little ink looks even better. This was super fiddly work and really required a steady hand for all 10 lines.

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    Very tiring work so I called it a day! I also had to celebrate my birthday and building a scale model under the influence is a recipe for disaster.


    August 30th, Day 4

    Woke up bright and early to get back at this as I wanted to see if I could finish of all the control wires to day threading the yoke was much easier than the yaw but threading those cables without a guide bracket was a pain.

    While I was waiting for the glue to set on the cables I went about painting up the Instrument Panel and the fuel/oil tank before installing it all in one go.

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    So that's where I am right now. I airbrushed a few other parts today as well such as the cowling and the fire wall as I had some silver/aluminum loaded up in the airbrush already.

    Tomorrow I will finish up the whole cockpit assembly and mount the twin Vickers MG, cartridge and linkage chutes as well as some more fittings in the cockpit. Then it's more woodwork on the main fuselage!

    I hope you've enjoyed the ride so far!

  2. #2

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    Oh and the loose wires are not fitted yet (They are part of the yoke but there are still parts to fit internally so the left side is not bonded yet.

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    Beautiful, James.
    Your level of detail in becoming Japanese in commitment...
    I couldn't resist, sorry...

  4. #4

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    Joaquim, funnily enough some of the Snipes I've been using as reference were built by Japanese hobbyists.

  5. #5

  6. #6

    Thumbs up

    I "dips me lid" James!
    That is just superb modelling.

  7. #7

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    Excellsnt job so far James. But you may be needing a bigger manoeuvre deck
    Run for your life - there are stupid people everywhere!

  8. #8

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    August 31st, Day 5

    I really wanted to get the whole cockpit assembly finished today but with my son having a football match (Soccer for our cousins over the pond) the daughter at Basketball and the wife returning from a night shift, the odds were stacked against me.

    So after completing all the chores the wife had tasked me I had about 2 hours before the kids got up (yep another 5:30am start) to get some work in.

    The next job was the pilots seat, which is a wicker chair. I wasn't too happy with the detailing so again I went about customising it. To do this I scrapped off the excessive plastic on the back to reveal the detail on the front. The chair has a thick open weave through the middle so I wanted to highlight this.

    One I had started to see light through the plastic I used a small 0.5mm drill to punch through the last layer, from there painting it up was easy.

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    To get the tight weave wicker effect I used a base coat of doped linen followed by a black wash, then a dark brown wash. For the thicker weave I did the same only without the dope linen.

    The leather trim along the top was created by using saddle leather with a black wash and then a dark brown wash followed by dry brushing with leather brown and a semi gloss finish.

    The seat cushion was achieved in the same way.

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    Again the wooden finish was matched up to the other parts of the air frame and then bonded together.

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    Next step was the seat buckle, as I wanted a fighting machine that saw action in WWI I went for the wide harness rather than the 4 point harness that was introduced after WWI. Now I hate metal parts with a passion, they can be a real pain to work with especially when you have to mold them and form them in to the model you are working with as the paint tends to crack, flake or just ruin.

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    Needless to say I was over the moon when the harness went in with little trouble, although next time I will mold it before paining any of the relevant parts as it will be easier to create the shading and highlights.

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    Right off to watch my kids football game! Back to this later!!!
    Last edited by FarEast; 08-31-2014 at 05:09.

  9. #9

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    Very impressive work James.
    You must be as daft as I am.
    It is going to be magnificent when you complete it.
    Rob.
    "Courage is the art of being the only one who knows you're scared to death."

  10. #10

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    Back from the game and they won 7-2, not only that but my daughter basketball team had won their game and they are through to the top 8!

    Happy, Happy.

    So obviously the first thing I do is get the pilot seat in the airframe to see how it looks and if I need to make adjustments. Actually I thought I had made a mistake a few days ago and cut a piece too short but it turned out that it connects to the pilots seat..... nice model but the instructions are a little cryptic sometimes!

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    I'm very impressed with the kit so far, every thing is very snug and I get the feeling a lot of it can happily sit together without bonding!

    From here It's time to get the twin Vickers Machine Guns, spent shell and link chutes and other parts painted an in. The method I use is to cut all the parts from the main sprue but keep a section attached to the part. This makes painting, bonding and identifying the parts much easier.

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    Assembly of the MG was very easy and once the glue had dried I mounted the guns to a pin for airbrushing - I used gun metal straight on to the naked palastic.

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    Then gave the piece a very healthy coating of black wash. Black wash is your friend, don't buy it make your own!

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    While I was waiting for the guns to dry I then went about detailing up the "Gun mount and Tail plane adjustment lever".
    As you can see I'm painting it while on the sprue, this isolates any accidents to the part you are working on and makes handling a lot easier. Once completed and dried you trim it off, sand the area with a micro file and then touch up the paint.

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    Back to the machine guns and to paint up the leather padding on the butts. I used the same technique as the leather trim on the seat.

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    Then to mount them and hope everything fits snugly in place.

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    To finish the airframe I added the chutes to the guns, one more rib either side of the airframe and then pushed the yoke, yaw and other trims into place and bonded the wiring. Finally the altitude meter and compass were added to the instrument panel. These decals are so small I needed to wear the x3 magnifying glasses.

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    With those fixed with decal fixing agent I then gave them several glazes to give a glassy effect the firewall was also installed and bonded that I had sprayed up with the cowling while I had some aluminum in the airbrush and taadaaaaaaaa, the cockpit section is finally...................

    Finished!

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    Last edited by FarEast; 08-31-2014 at 05:42.

  11. #11

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    I thought I would share some tips with you.

    * Go to the dollar, Yen, Pound whatever store and pick up some porcelain bowls. I got these from my local 100 Yen store.

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    The paint can not bond to them so once you have used a colour or it has dried in the pallet you can just use a tissue to scrape or wipe the paint out and then you can add a new colour without washing it out.

    * Avoid tap water with mixing or diluting paints, there are a lot of chemicals that can effect the pigment use distilled water.

    * Zoe spoke about using masking tape to remove top layers of paint, if you are having this happen at the wrong time you can decrease the bond by stinking it a your jeans first then applying to the model.

    * When painting very small parts that run the risk of glue over flow put a base colour that matches the original material under the paint down first, then apply the paint of the coloured effect after. In the case of the Snipe I did this in with the gun mounts, first silver then black. I got a little over flow and when wiping the excessive glue off it removed part of the top coat and revealed the silver base, you can either leave it as it looks like weathering or repaint with a wash to achieve the same.

    Again I hope you enjoyed today's work next step is the main body and for that I need to pick up some oil paints!

  12. #12

  13. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by Flying Officer Kyte View Post
    Very impressive work James.
    You must be as daft as I am.
    It is going to be magnificent when you complete it.
    Rob.
    I think you need to be to build these types of kit.... also going from 1/144 to 1/32 you find you have a lot more room to work with and more space to fill with paint!

    Quote Originally Posted by grumpybear View Post
    Looking great so far, thanks for sharing
    Thank you for the comments and I'm glad you're enjoying it.

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    We're enjoying?! We're thrilled!

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    September 2nd, Day 6

    This morning I put down the primer on the inside of the snipe, left it to harden for 10 hours and then once I finally made it home masked up the areas and went to the paint booth.

    I'll be using a slightly different technique for the wood grain effect, this time I put down a straight coat of Vallejo natural wood colour. I'll let this dry over night and then tomorrow evening I will start the grain effect.

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    Impressive job so far, James. It's gonna be a beauty!

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    September 3rd, Day 7

    This is where patience is a virtue. After purchasing the materials needed it was time to go to work, again I practiced the technique on my scrap sheet. These really are a handy little thing to have, basically its a sheet of plastic that I picked up from the hobby shop and will show you how the paint, glue or materials will hold to the surface.

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    After checking that the acrylic base coat of Vajello natural wood had dried and hardened I then selected the 'Burnt Umber' oil paints - these ones are specifically fast drying which is essential, although you are still looking at about 48 hours to harden.

    You may have notice that I have masked off some of the panels, this is because during the real build process the engineers and carpenters were very careful to break the line of the grain up to strengthen the integrity of the air frame, we do the same with ripstop materials.

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    Then using an old paint brush I applied a liberal coating of the oil paint, I didn't worry about lines as these make the effect more realistic. Once I had all the corners cover I broke off a piece of sponge and wiped the surface in the direction I wanted the grain.

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    To get the swirls and knots in the wood I twisted the sponge then lightly ran over the grain again until i get the shade and finish I wanted.

    From there the pieces got placed in an air tight container to dry, this is essential as oil paint attracts lint and dust like nobodies business so keeping it covered during the drying process is essential. Also make sure your container is CLEAN! I throw mine in the dishwasher on wash and dry cycle and only remove them when I'm about to put the pieces inside.

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    With the masking off you can really see the difference and uniqueness in each panel, all the little knots, kinks and lines!

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    So in another 48 hours will repeat the process on one of the panels using raw umber to give a different tone and then again for the last to get the most historically correct finish.

    Good job I have some other projects to keep me busy!
    Last edited by FarEast; 09-03-2014 at 05:00.

  18. #18

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    Great "How to" James.
    I am all agog to see what the finished job is like.
    Rob.
    "Courage is the art of being the only one who knows you're scared to death."

  19. #19

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    The wood effect is perfect !
    Congratulations, Sensei James!

  20. #20

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    Brilliant stuff, James-San!
    I look forward to the next thrilling instalment!

  21. #21

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    Quote Originally Posted by Flying Officer Kyte View Post
    Great "How to" James.
    I am all agog to see what the finished job is like.
    Rob.
    Many thanks Rob, how do you go about posting a "How to" as I will be more than happy to supply more photos for it so people can see the whole process more clearly.

  22. #22

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    Quote Originally Posted by FarEast View Post
    Many thanks Rob, how do you go about posting a "How to" as I will be more than happy to supply more photos for it so people can see the whole process more clearly.
    Once it is finished, just PM the Oberst with the thread page info, and he will decide weather to put it in the "How to" section.
    Rob.
    "Courage is the art of being the only one who knows you're scared to death."

  23. #23

    Thumbs up

    Very impressive work James.
    I love the way you did the pilots seat & belt.

  24. #24

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    Great work and very useful tips!

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    September 6th, Day 8

    So I repeated the process with the other panels plus the head board and varnished.

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    For the head board I went with a darker finish to represent the heavier wood used to protect the pilots and you can really get a feel for the warmth of the wood in this piece. Then from there I masked off the wood panels and sprayed a coat of black then Aluminum on to the cowling on the front of the fuselage. Airbrushing makes this very easy.

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    Once this section had dried I masked if off and gave the rest of the fuselage a dark yellow base ready for the doped linen.

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    September 7th, Day 9

    SO the masking comes off so I can see where I need to touch up the model and give it some washes or high lighting, mainly around the aluminum parts and where the paneling meets the doped linen as the lines are a little to bold.

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    Running a hard cotton bub down the edges removed some of the lines as well as a dark sand wash over the doped linen and a black wash on the aluminum as the edges.

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    Next up was some super fiddly masking for the internal bracing... 0.5mm to 5mm tapes used as well as some custom cut.

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    Once removed, highlighted and varnished, along with the landing strut parts at the back.Then some more washes and dry brushing.

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    Final piece for today was the inside of the canopy cover. Yep more wood effects and I went with the hardwood finish.

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    Then it was time to do a dry assembly to see if all the parts fit together perfectly.

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    Snug as a bug in a rug!

    Oh and yes, all the detail that I spent the last 9 days working on can no longer be seen

    MADNESS!

  27. #27

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    Utter madness! Wonderful and glorious madness!!

    When I was back in school (I took a course in Marionette Theater) a teacher that was teaching us Props Production saw my wonderful model of a scene and told me, "This is theater my friend, what the spectator see is what matters, what he can't see might very well be held together with tape. Now that! you've done is art in itself. Give it to your mother, she will love it."
    I was angry at the time with him, I was 17, but later I fully understood him. But to this day, the fact that I make something that will be hidden from everyone eyes still thrills me.

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    I know exactly what you are talking about as I have also made props for my kids schools - it has to be big and bold!

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    Exactly! You're a master of it.

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    This was my first radio controlled Marionette. It was for a TV show.



    Everybody loved it and I was always trying to show them the system I created in the inside of it. (Almost) Nobody cared about it. Infuriating, isn't it?

  31. #31

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    The Cabinet maker who taught me woodwork told me to polish the inside frames underneath and back of my carcasses. He told me no one will ever see it, but you know it is there.
    Rob.
    "Courage is the art of being the only one who knows you're scared to death."

  32. #32

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    Great model James!! Dont be upset the details arent showing, because we will know they are there.

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    September 10th, Day 10

    NOOOOOO!!!!!

    What the hell was I thinking, was I that drunk?

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    Actually no, not drunk at all.

    The technique is called pre-shading and replicates weathering, shadows and seams on a kit. Once this is dried I then layer on several thin coats to get the effects needed.

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    As you can see after the first 2 coats the black is now become less dominant, then I dilute the colour to about 60-70/40-30 thinner to paint and then start building up more layers to smooth out the lines and tones.

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    From here I will be starting to add more tone and shadow affects such as bleaching and then ink washes.

    *note to self...... get blue-tac for plugging small holes and parts when spraying.

  36. #36

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    You are truly an artist! Your attention to detail is astounding. This is turning out to be a truly impressive work. Thanks for sharing!

  37. #37

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    Lot's done since I last updated so will post a few days in a row!

    September 12th, Day 11

    So having finished the shading it was time to start on the detailing of the canopy, leather and shadowing put in and also a small about of weathering.

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    From there it was start on the fuselage as well, more pre-shading and down before assembly, each coat is thinned to allow the darker shades to slightly come through.

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    Last edited by FarEast; 09-18-2014 at 04:12.

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    September 13th, Day 11

    Then once this had cured it was time to see how it all mounted up.

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    From here I masked off the engine cowling and firewalls and went about putting down a flat black base and masked off the higher areas for pre-shading.

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    Over the top of this was a coat of the base green that I would be using and the masking was then removed.

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    and then multiple layers of the green added, each one thinner than the last.

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    I then aligned and bonded one side to the wooden frame structure; this was actually mounted with the oppersite side to make sure of perfect alignment, but only one side was bonded.

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    Once I was finally happy with the lines it was time to commit, using Tamiya Cement I bonded the two halves together and also dry fitted the canopy to make sure of alignment.

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    I left this to cure for several hours and returned to it in the afternoon.
    Last edited by FarEast; 09-18-2014 at 04:27.

  39. #39

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    September 13th, Day 11; Part 2

    I really wasn't happy with the seam line and had to do something about it!

    Using Tamiya 'Putty' I went and filled in seam lines, pits and other blemishes and then sanded the lines down.

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    and again used the same method to restore the paint to its original finish before sanding.

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    The final task before I hit the sack was to decal the fuselage ready for the matt varnish so that I wouldn't get any visible ridges in the fuselage.

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  40. #40

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    September 14th, Day 12

    Now it was time to start on the Bentley Engine! All parts were given a base of semi-gloss black and then dry brushed with oily-steel. The raised parts were then painted with a polished steel.

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    Now to add more details! The engine is missing the wires to the cylinder heads so using a 0.2mm drill I drilled out the actual holes, ready for the fishing line to be carefully threaded through.

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  41. #41

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    This is already taking on the aspect of a work of art James.
    I am following this construction with the greatest of interest.
    Rob.
    "Courage is the art of being the only one who knows you're scared to death."

  42. #42

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    Pure. Art. Art! Yes! Beautiful James! Please continue with the fantastic job.

  43. #43

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    Amazing! The amount of work you put on even the smallest detail is awesome, James!
    Last edited by Sulring; 09-19-2014 at 08:06.

  44. #44

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    September 15th, Day 15

    I decided to put the engine aside as it really was a task that needed a weekend to complete - the holes were drilled and I had a good idea how to thread the line - I should have done it per-assembly though!

    So now I turned my attention to the wings, I have never built a biplane before and the Clear Doped Linen (CDL) was a new and scary prospect for me!

    The first task was to coat the entire surface with a lighter version of the CDL finish.

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    From there the thankless task of masking off every single wing rib and then going over with the slightly darker version of the standard CDL colour, in my case sand yellow.

    I then went over the ribs with a darker shade for the pre-shading effect.

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    The taping was then removed and I began work spraying the wings with the final top coat I wanted again thinning the paint as I worked up the layers.

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    Once this was dried I then went to work weathering the wings, as this was a field serviced aircraft and had been captured by the Russian and then had its camo striped and remade in local fabric the staining would be pretty bad. So I went for a harsher deep stain on the fabric.

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  45. #45

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    September 17th, Day 16

    Having locked all the weathering in with a clear coat matt varnish it was time to decal the rudder with the 'Black Arrow'

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    I always cut as close to the decal as possible as it makes transition much easier as well as removing any unwanted clear decal sheet.

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    This is a very cool little tool for decals, especially the larger ones. Once the decal separates from the backing paper just remove the tray from the water.

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    Using the reference sheet and actual photos I lined up the decal perfectly to match the original - if I hadn't locked the weathering down it would have come off when the decal was put on leaving you with no weathering and nasty streaks! I also patted it down with a lint free cloth to remove all the excessive water.

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    Finally I used Vallejo 'Decal Fix' the fix actually makes the decal more pliable so and will allow all the detail of the model to push through - so you don'e want to be playing around with it while you are waiting for it to dry.

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  46. #46

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    September 19th, Day 17

    Having locked the weathering down it was time to work on the wing joints and fuselage. Again I masked off the wings as I didn't want to ruin all that hard work and from there pre-shaded the edges, holes and natural lines with black.

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    From here it was the usual procedure of layering thinner coats of service grey.

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    Then when it was dried time to remove the masking to see how it all looked!

    Yep that will do!

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  47. #47

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    While all this was going on I decided to do a bit more work on weathering the main fuselage.

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    Once this has set I will then give it a Mat Varnish and sand the highlighted areas to play with the lighting that the model casts.

    Also while I had the parts out I decided to see if everything would still slot together perfectly or if I would need to remove paint.

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    * also the square effect is on the panels of the wing joints is a camera trick, you can't see it with the naked eye and when I take the image next with the macro lens it will also disappear with the diffused flash.

    Yep and I still need to spray up the belly of Nelly

  48. #48

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    Couldn't wait!!!

    I also repainted the padding around the cockpit as I wasn't happy with the result so used oil paints to create deeper finish.

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  49. #49

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    This keeps getting better and better. I just hope your wife buys you another one when you finish this one, James.

  50. #50

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    Joaquim, Don't worry I have 4 more to build after this one!

    Albatros D.Va
    Fokker Eindecker III
    D.H2
    Roland C.II

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    Very happy! Today my 3rd party accessories arrived from Greece.

    RAF late type turnbuckles!!!!

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