Preparing SW with altitude peg stick.

[Radovic]

Hi Guys,
Just got my first batch from shapeways; Rumpler C.I, RAF FE.2b and RAF B.E.2c (preparing my self to the the early doors campaign).

The first thing I noticed was that the Rumpler already had that small stick on the bottom of the model for the altitude pegs but the others did not. How do you guys make them, whats the smartest way?

Anyhow I have already started the first step by giving them a gentle warm bath and let them dry off.
I was thinking of trying the 2 coat acrylic lacquer method (http://www.wingsofwar.org/forums/sho...6-A-New-Finish). Just to make sure should it be a varnish or an solid glossy white?
Then I was thinking of using "The army painter" spray for the base coat following with GamesWorkshop paint for the details. You think this will fly?

Ps. I really think there should be an official sticky thread regarding the preparation of the SW.

[clipper1801]

Greetings Ivan! Your first question addressed the post, some of the modelers on the SW site form them into the model, others do not. It is a handy thing to have on the model during painting, so I suggest making a hole in the models to fit a wooden or plastic rod of the right diameter, then proceed with the painting.

As for the spray coats, just a high gloss is all that is required, I use clear and white, the trick is to get the surface of the model well coated - wet with paint, let it begin to set and when it is "tacky" give it another coat. Let this cure and repeat if necessary. I normally do the bottom first and when done flip the model over and do the top. The process is well documented on my thread which you have found. Good Luck!

[gully_raker]

Another option Ivan is to stick a small rare earth magnet to the bottom of the model & another on the hollow end of a peg.
Just make sure you get the + & - sides aligned.

[Radovic]

Thanks David and Barry.
I think I will go with the first solution with a wooden rod (the magnet thing sounds clever but I would like the same setup for all of my planes).

I will probably start spraying tomorrow, I'll keep you posted *fingers crossed*

[flash]

I tend to make pegs from old plastic kit sprue Radovic

[prymus]

I've just been cutting the peg off the end of an altitude stand. Right size, glues nicely to the bottom of the plane, looks like the Ares/Nexus issues. Just me though, many ways to skin this cat...

[Radovic]

I've just been cutting the peg off the end of an altitude stand. Right size, glues nicely to the bottom of the plane, looks like the Ares/Nexus issues. Just me though, many ways to skin this cat...

Excellent idea prymus! That worked great (and was easy).

[prymus]

Cool, glad it worked for you.

[Radovic]

So I had some time today (unfortunately way less that whats required, so was a bit fast and sloppy).
I painted all three at the same time but got rather different results.

Best results was on the Rumpler:


Just colored some of the details and added the stickers (nothing fancy) but rather okey result!

BUT with the other two I had some issues

The fe2b color cracked but only in the bottom. This I can live with, its on the bottom and not that visible, Ill color the details and put some stickers on and that baby should be ready to fly!


Then the be2c, I had some puddling going on on the top wing and when I lifted the model everything got messed up, not really sure how to save this one maybe some sandpapering?


I think that my biggest problem was when I did the first and second coat it felt that the model soaked it all in like a sponge. So I went with a bit of a thicker third coat that actually messed it all up and created puddles.
Please feel free to comment and give feedback!

[Boney10]

I use a three mm plastic rod, drill into the bottom of the SW model and push in the rod and cut to size.
This fits the pegs perfectly

[prymus]

If you try sanding make sure the paint is fully cured or you'll end up with sticky globs on the model and the paper. Not sure about the cracking effect. You may just want to strip the BE2 though. The Rumpler did come out nice. These were WSF? I've read somewhere, iirc, that WSF is kind of sponge like with paint. I'm sure there are folks here much smarter than I when it comes to this kind of thing. Good luck with the rest of your project.

[clipper1801]

This is called crazing on your finish caused by under coat and upper coat resisting each other. This mostly happens when the last coat shrinks and the base coat does not. If you used a gloss base coat, it helps to give the gloss a buffing first so the layers adhere to each other. Did you mix types of paints in the process? I have had it happen when I use a solvent based filler and put on a water based paint before the lower coats had fully cured. Application of Dull Coat or such top sealer can cause this as well. I have started brushing on a dull clear coat of water based lacquer to set the decals and give a uniform finish.

[ReducedAirFact]

Were these straight paint layers, or was a primer involved at some point?

[Radovic]

If you try sanding make sure the paint is fully cured or you'll end up with sticky globs on the model and the paper. Not sure about the cracking effect. You may just want to strip the BE2 though. The Rumpler did come out nice. These were WSF? I've read somewhere, iirc, that WSF is kind of sponge like with paint. I'm sure there are folks here much smarter than I when it comes to this kind of thing. Good luck with the rest of your project.

Yes these were all WSF.

This is called crazing on your finish caused by under coat and upper coat resisting each other. This mostly happens when the last coat shrinks and the base coat does not. If you used a gloss base coat, it helps to give the gloss a buffing first so the layers adhere to each other. Did you mix types of paints in the process? I have had it happen when I use a solvent based filler and put on a water based paint before the lower coats had fully cured. Application of Dull Coat or such top sealer can cause this as well. I have started brushing on a dull clear coat of water based lacquer to set the decals and give a uniform finish.

Yes I've been using two types of spray, the first base layer was with "CRC Pro Paint" (glossy white) and then desired base coat with "The Army Painter".

[Radovic]

The fe2b speed painted:

[prymus]

Nice looking FE there Ivan, enjoying your photos. They make me want to get to work on mine. Got 4 Alb DII to paint for my "Jasta Wittrich" project. Keep up the good work. Thanks David for the painting tips, u-da-man.

[Radovic]

Thanks William, glad I got you inspired

Here is the last one after the quick sandpaper fix on the wing (the be2c):

[Lt. S.Kafloc]

Great looking models. I find a quick wash in warm water to get any residue off. 3 coats of watered down PVA glue, allowing 24 hours between coats to dry and painting on top is no problem. No undercoat needed.

Neil

[Radovic]

Great looking models. I find a quick wash in warm water to get any residue off. 3 coats of watered down PVA glue, allowing 24 hours between coats to dry and painting on top is no problem. No undercoat needed.

Neil

Does that remove the rough surface? Maybe I will try this method next time