My first Shapeways. Alb DIII and Nieuports!

[rkwright]

I received my first set of shapeways today. I decided to go with the FUD because I wasn't too confident in my skills in sanding or polishing the WSF. So far they look pretty good... two complaints though.

Heres all 4 of them. Also my recently re-painted Dallas Tripe in the background.


One of the DIII's lower wings was drooping a little. Not too noticeable though.


One of my Nieuports came without a tail!


I emailed shapeways so we'll see what happens. From what I've read on here they have good customer service.

I've started to paint one of the DIII in Jasta 18 blue and red colors. The paint goes on easy and so far it looks pretty good. I'll update when I get a more finished product.

[Captain Chum]

The FUD's look nice. How fragile are they?

[decapod]

I hope you gave them a good clean before painting, FUD is usually covered in an oily substance.

3 parts boiling water, 1 part cold in a cup with detergent, leave for a few mins and brush with paintbrush. Usually takes several goes.
That will also help with the wing droop.

After that I usually coat with thin varnish to help the paint stick.

[johnbiggles]

I received my first set of shapeways today. I decided to go with the FUD because I wasn't too confident in my skills in sanding or polishing the WSF. So far they look pretty good... two complaints though.

Heres all 4 of them. Also my recently re-painted Dallas Tripe in the background.


One of the DIII's lower wings was drooping a little. Not too noticeable though.


One of my Nieuports came without a tail!


I emailed shapeways so we'll see what happens. From what I've read on here they have good customer service.

I've started to paint one of the DIII in Jasta 18 blue and red colors. The paint goes on easy and so far it looks pretty good. I'll update when I get a more finished product.

Hi Ryan,
I don't sand or polish WSF, I just give it a coat of 1:1 water/PVA glue and let it dry then paint.
look in my album at the Caudron G4 for results.

[Badin23]

Thanks for the posting I just sent away for my first shapeways DVll's and can use all the info I can get!

[rkwright]

The FUD's look nice. How fragile are they?

They're very light. So they seem a bit fragile, but because they weigh next to nothing, the risk of them dropping and breaking seems low. I "stress" tested the Nieuport without the tail, dropping it from the table on to the floor a few times - nothing happened.

[rkwright]

I hope you gave them a good clean before painting, FUD is usually covered in an oily substance.

3 parts boiling water, 1 part cold in a cup with detergent, leave for a few mins and brush with paintbrush. Usually takes several goes.
That will also help with the wing droop.

After that I usually coat with thin varnish to help the paint stick.

I noticed that... I've only started painting one, and with that one and wiped it down with some paper towels and then used a brush as well. I didn't coat the plane with anything (varnish) - for now the paint seems to be going on just fine with no real issues.

BTW these were your designs, they look great!

[ReducedAirFact]

decapod & ohter designers -- how thick do make your wings in 1/144 FUD designs? I have more or less given up on FUD at 1/144 due to wing droop (though it doesn't seem to be a problem at 1/288). My 1/288 scale ones I do in FUD with 0.35mm thickness, but I think that's too thin for 1/144. I guess if you're using the same model for both materials it must be at least 0.7mm, but it looks like that still isn't enough to avoid the wing droop problem.

(And yes you can mitigate it to some extent with 160°F water treatments.)

[decapod]

For 1/144 I always build for WSF with a close to scale aerofoil section so they're probably mostly over 1mm at the thickest point.

The albatros might have been a bit thinner.

[rkwright]

Well ran into my first issue. I normally paint with enamel paints - I always have and they seems to be working just fine on repaints of official models. But I noticed it wasn't fully drying on the FUD. I researched a bit and apparently the FUD can react with enamel paints and won't allow them to dry. Apparently acrylic paints work fine (or acrylic primer and then enamels). Also I learned that I may be one of the few still using enamels... Who would have known... So back to the hobby store for new paints!

[decapod]

Yes - you're not the first to have that problem with enamels. The FUD plastic is an acrylic but the support material and solvent used to remove it after is some kind of wax or oil.
I suspect that even small amounts of that react with the enamel solvent.

For some of my FUD models I have washed in hot detergent, brushed in neat floor cleaner and washed again then repeated 3 times in total to get rid of the last traces. Enamels work then

Again, a thin varnish - provides a smoother surface and a good key for the paint. Acrylic paint is more susceptible to scratching.

[rkwright]

Update:

Ok I now have finished the DIIIs. I really liked the look of the the Voss DIII so I decided to model these two after it, creating some custom markings. So Jasta 2 inspired, but not historical...

The first one (the one with the Bar W on it) started as a Jasta 18 blue with red nose. But the paint wasn't sticking, so I ended up washing it three times, recoating with acrylic paint, then repainting with enamel. The final product is ok, but not the greatest.

The second try was done correct the first time - three washes, base coat of acrylic, enamel coats and details, then matte varnish. Though it may need some more - the wing edges seem to be glossy. I don't have an airbrush so it was all brush work.

You can see in the background an F-Toys DIII. I have to say I like the paint scheme on the Ftoys but was not happy at with the product. The whole fuselage is misaligned relative to the wings.

Gimbal mounts and decals from Keith were easy to mount.

[ReducedAirFact]

Lovely work! You could try a spray-paint matte coat if you want to make the job easier. If your local hobby store doesn't have a good quality product, check with an art-supply store.

[Badin23]

Those look amazing Ryan!

[Chris Maes]

Gentlemen... and Ladies,

I suggest... regardless of what material the model is composed of...
regardless of whether you will be painting the model with oils, enamel or acrylic paints...
you should always start with a primer.

The auto primer that comes in a rattle-can is good...
if you can get stuff especially formulated as a primer for plastics, that is even better.
Prime in black... prime in grey... prime in white...
doesn't really matter*
but you really should prime, as it gives the successive layers of paint something to grab onto.

* What color of primer is best depends on several factors- your painting style and what color you will paint over it make some difference. Use a dark primer if the model has a lot of deep detail and you will be using a dry-brush or "block" painting style (where you paint only high areas, leaving dark undercoat between panels, etc...). Lighter primers work best if you will be painting over them with lighter/brighter colors or especially thin layers of paint. Medium (such as grey) is just an all-around good compromise. Sometimes, I will merely prime in the base color of the model.

Also, you should finish it off with a clear top coat. I usually use a clear gloss before applying any decals (also helps to smooth WSF surfaces), then finish with a clear matte coat- Testor's Dulcote or Krylon Clear Matte Finish are the best I have found here in the States.

Chris

[johnbiggles]

* What color of primer is best depends on several factors- your painting style and what color you will paint over it make some difference. Use a dark primer if the model has a lot of deep detail and you will be using a dry-brush or "block" painting style (where you paint only high areas, leaving dark undercoat between panels, etc...). Lighter primers work best if you will be painting over them with lighter/brighter colors or especially thin layers of paint. Medium (such as grey) is just an all-around good compromise. Sometimes, I will merely prime in the base color of the model.



Chris

I usually use a couple of coats of CDL, (humbrol acrylic 103 for me) as a primer (over thinned PVA), then either more CDL or home made PC10 as appropriate.
after applying decals a clear matt varnish (vallejo).
wsf is still grainy close up, but when they are on the table they look fine at playing distance which is what matters to me

[johnbiggles]

Ryan, really good work there,
I wish my hands were that steady!

[Flying Helmut]

very nice paint job!

[Teaticket]

Very nice work!

[Captain Chum]

Wow! suburb work!

[Twisted_terrain]

That flight looks awsome, I also like your chair backs.

[gully_raker]

Great looking Kette there my friend!

[rkwright]

Decals came in and now the Nieuports are done. Shapeways sent me another order due to the missing tail on the one (so 2 more Nieuports) bringing the total to 3.

I put the gimbal mounts on last night and when I set them up to take pictures one wasn't bonded well enough and came off. So the camouflaged N 17 is still being worked on.

[ReducedAirFact]

Excellent job! I can't imagine anyone walking by your gaming table without asking, "Wow, can I play?"

[rkwright]

Ha! Isn't that the truth! My 2 year old comes by and wants to fly the planes all the time. I have her the defect shapeways model and let her fly it around. Btw if anyone is wondering about how fragile FUD is, she can show you - it's held up pretty well!

[Flying Officer Kyte]

Nice Job Ryan.
Do you countersink the ball slightly into the body of the plane to give a better bond?
Rob.

[Mike George]

Very nice work!!!!

[Captain Chum]

Some more wonderful work Ryan. The Nieuports are stunning.

[Teaticket]

Nice Job Ryan.
Do you countersink the ball slightly into the body of the plane to give a better bond?
Rob.

Rob, I put a small counter sink spot on my planes. I figure a super glue bond with the bearing and the plane will be better than the bearing to paint. Its only a small
spot but I think the super glue will do great with that. I do that after painting but before the final spray clear coat.
I'll find out how well it holds soon with the Early War campaign starting in a couple weeks!

[flash]

Very nice job Ryan

[Teaticket]

Yes, sweet flights indeed. Love the Albatross trio! I have some Nieuports on the way and will probably steal your marking scheme! They look great.

[Flying Officer Kyte]

Rob, I put a small counter sink spot on my planes. I figure a super glue bond with the bearing and the plane will be better than the bearing to paint.

That is exactly the same as I do Peter.
Rob.

[Teaticket]

That is exactly the same as I do Peter.
Rob.

Great minds....