A couple of AIM 1/200 P-400 a case of reverse lend lease. British rejects used by the US in early action in the Pacific. AIM decals used with some I94 for aircraft numbers.
I posted a bunch of recent projects in my 1/200 album.
Tony
A couple of AIM 1/200 P-400 a case of reverse lend lease. British rejects used by the US in early action in the Pacific. AIM decals used with some I94 for aircraft numbers.
I posted a bunch of recent projects in my 1/200 album.
Tony
Last edited by flash; 12-22-2013 at 14:26. Reason: Enhanced Title
Very smart Tony.
Rob.
Nice job Tony; I have them on my list for some SW Pac action.
Karl
Great job Tony
Well done that man, your P-400's look great.
Very nicely done. They may not have been the best aircraft of the war but the various Cobras are amongst my favourites on looks alone
Nice planes, Tony.
Just checked out your 1/200 album, you've been a very busy guy lately. It's not specifically mentioned, but the OD B24 is converted from the silver one, correct? Wonderful work if it is! Lloyd
Yes, you've been hiding your light under a bushel Tony, you have loads more for the showcase there in your album
Well done Tony
These are 1/144 scale.
When I bought these from OZMODS, they were the only P-39s in 1/144 scale available. I paid a pretty price for these 4, about $98 USD, shipping and all.
Murphy's Law: About a year after I bought these, F-Toys released their super-duper pre-painted P-39s in one of their Wing Kit Collections!
Really like the Russian birds. Did the nose lettering come with the kit or was that something that was found from elsewhere?
Geeze, I can't recall. I bought the kits from OZMODS, but the decales, as I remember them, were very thin and on the transparent side. If I'm remembering this right, the red stars were from a decale sheet I bought seperately. The wing walks, I actually hand pained, including the red no-step toward the front. The lettering was either the only decale I used that came from the kits, or quite possibly from a flames of war, russian tank decale set I purchased eons ago. The tail number decales are from Zvezda's LaGG-3 1/144 scale fighter kit(s).
I know on the U.S. P-39s, the only OZMOD decale that came with the kit, that I used, was the shark mouth. So the lettering on the russian P-39 may have indeed been an original OZMOD decale. They were very hard to work with though.
Isn't a wonder that we can't remember every detail of every kit we've ever built? Unfortunately that's happening to me a lot these days.
I picked up some Soviet tanks slogans this summer off of ebay, but they are single color markings, so I was curious about yours. Sounds like you keep a box of extra decals. They certainly come in handy.
I can remember one of the very first things my Dad ever taught me about building models was, never, ever throw away any decales.
Lovely airocobra's one of my first airfix models eons ago it seems now.
I painted two P-39 Airacobras for the Lake Ladoga (Siege of Leningrad) game I recently ran at Marscon. I ordered the models from AIM. The paint scheme is not spectacular on the models; I based them on photographs of winter paint jobs on P-39s (including one with a mismatched olive green air intake that hadn't yet been painted over white).
I also wanted to paint Airacobras because of my wife's family connection to them. Her grandfather worked in the Bell factory in Buffalo, New York before being drafted into the war. There is chance he helped build some of these lend lease planes.
The decal sheet that came with the AIM planes provided white numbers, so I used some red numeral decals leftover from a sheet of Macchi 200 decals to use as numbers here (as has been stated earlier in this thread: never throw away decals).
I think you have done well with what is not a very inspiring colour scheme Dave.
The decals work fine and raise the status of the paint job, as does your nice rendition of the canopy.
Rob.
"Courage is the art of being the only one who knows you're scared to death."
AIM aircraft: I used a three step process to achieve a desired affect. Step 1: I applied one decal. Step 2: Applied a thinned white paint to cover the first decal. Step 3: Applied a second decal.
https://www.wingsofwar.org/forums/at...2&d=1511671789
https://www.wingsofwar.org/forums/at...1&d=1511671789
https://www.wingsofwar.org/forums/at...0&d=1511671789
Last edited by flash; 01-10-2018 at 22:48.
Thank you Peter. I used a very small brush (0/10 I think) and a magnifying glass (eyes aren't what they used to be).
Nice job, Peter. I assume we'll be seeing them at Origins, if not before?
Karl
It is impossible for a man to begin to learn what he thinks he knows. -- Epictetus
yet another stunner Pete.
Well executed that man.
Rob.
"Courage is the art of being the only one who knows you're scared to death."
Beautiful quartet!
I laugh in the face of danger - then I hide until it goes away!
Nice work as always Peter. Thanks for the color information.
Here is my modest contribution to this thread that is already filled with excellent work.
First of all, my apologies for not giving the planes a good dusting off before I took the pictures. Although it wasn't visible to my naked eye, I still had some dust left on them from carving out the propellers.
Second, I thought it better to censure some of the nose art on one of the planes. I'm not sure that everyone would be OK with the decals shown as they were. I'm curious what the attitude towards some of the more elicit nose art of the time is on this site. However, I took the cautious route.
I did an experiment with clear-coat on these planes. For the first time on small scale models, I applied a protective coat of Mr. Color Super Clear GX III clear gloss over them after base coating. I can not begin to say how successful this was. I've used the product many times on 48 scale planes and found it difficult to use over large spaces. A few months ago I thought I would try using it in the cockpit of a Ki-84 model I posted and found that when used on smaller areas, I could control the application better. The result was a glass-smooth, rock hard clear coat that made the panel lining of these planes a total breeze. Note how I was easily even able to highlight the tiny panel lines on the rudder with decent success. The second phase of the experiment was around the final coat. I tried pure Mr. Color Flat on a few, semi-gloss on a few, and a mix of 50/50 flat/semi-gloss on a few. I doubt the compressed pictures will show the differences, but in summary here is what I found. The flat and semi-gloss both go on like a total dream in small areas. The flat is very, very, verrrrry flat and really brings out details as there is zero glare. I'm not sure how durable it will be over time as you can feel the relative roughness of the surface. The semi-gloss is a touch too shiny for final presentation, but will make for an excellent intermediate stage finish for weathering. In my opinion, the 50/50 blend gives a nice flat finish, but has a little more solids in it to protect the plane when used as a game piece. I'll point the finish method used on each for your edification should you choose to try the product out. I highly recommend it if you are handy with an airbrush.
All paints are airbrushed Mr. Color. Cockpits are Vallejo Metal Color Silver, tinted with Tamiya black Panel Liner.
The first plane is the standard color scheme seen on Guadalcanal in mid-1942, flown by the 67th Fighter Squadron. Standard Misc-Mini decals applied over Dark Earth/Dark Green camo. 50/50 blended clear coat.
Next we have another P-400. This one as flown by the 80th FS, 8th FG in Port Moresby, New Guinea in November of 1942. Inspiration for this plane was from the Eduard P-400 model kit. I took the shark's teeth decal from the Misc-Mini sheet and cut the red lips off. Then changed the angle, and repainted the teeth where the two sides join to make it work. The letter came from a Micro-Scale decal sheet. They have tons of great sheets with various numbers, letters and other useful decals. 50/50 blended clear coat.
The third P-400 is from the 39th FS, 35th FG flying in Port Moresby in June of 1942. This particular plane was flown by Lt Charles King, hence the cool little homemade crown decal on the port door. This, and all the following are painted in standard US OD. Pure flat clear coat.
Moving onto a P-39D, we have the iconic and cliché Air A Cutie. It was pretty famous plane because of the outrageous nose art. The machine flew with the 36th FS, 8th FG in New Guinea, up into late 1943. Art work censured to work for a family environment. Misc Mini decals. 50/50 blend clear coat.
This next plane was a P-39J flown by Lt Leslie Spoonts for the 57th FS, 54th FG in Kodiak, Alaska, June-Oct 1942. Numbers are Micro-Scale .I had to cut 14 individual decals to get the tail and nose codes done on both sides. A real test of my patience. This plane is straight up Semi-Gloss coated. A touch shiny. I will probably come back and weather it someday.
Last P-39 of this group is a P-39K flown by t William McDonough for the 40th FS, 35th FG at Nadzab, New Guinea, February 1943. I also had to cut up ten individual Misc-Mini numbers to get the tail code. Pure Matt finish. The custom fighting angelic Donald Duck nose art decal was provided by the evil but talented Malachi who is known to frequent this site. Thanks Buddy!
Last edited by Dak21; 04-23-2021 at 10:37.
Awesome work, Dave! Too tough to pick a fav, send them all to me.
Great work on such small scale aircraft, Dave.
Nice touch with the censor bars on Air a Cutie.
Superb work Dave, and I didn't even have to try and find my blue pencil .
Kyte.
"Courage is the art of being the only one who knows you're scared to death."
That's a great deal of awesome work there Dave. Thanks for sharing. " Mr. Color Super Clear GX III clear gloss" sounds just the job to prepare surfaces. I'll have to find out what the nearest equivalent is on this side of the pond, and give it a try as all suppliers here appear to be out of stock. Love every one of these models of yours Rep gun jammed after recent use, but really worthy. I'll try and remember to return when the wooden mallet treatment has unjammed it again
Last edited by mikeemagnus; 04-23-2021 at 14:27.
Hey Mike,
Im sure the low stock thing on the GXIII is temporary due to the pandemic. For me, the closet thing is Tamiya XF-86 flat clear, and X-22 clear. You can just mix them to get the finish you like. In the case of both Tamiya and Mr. Color, I do a 3 parts Mr Color Leveling Thinner to two parts clear and spray at 15psi. Tamiya lacquer thinner works too, but the Mr Color Leveling Thinner performs better as it has some magic leveling compounds in it. I pretty much follow the Clipper method. A quick, thin tack coat followed by a nice, slowly applied, heavy wet coat. Let that level for a couple minutes, the flip it over and do the other side.
Excellent work Dave
Run for your life - there are stupid people everywhere!
Many thanks Dave - very useful.I’m sure the low stock thing on the GXIII is temporary due to the pandemic. For me, the closet thing is Tamiya XF-86 flat clear, and X-22 clear. You can just mix them to get the finish you like. In the case of both Tamiya and Mr. Color, I do a 3 parts Mr Color Leveling Thinner to two parts clear and spray at 15psi. Tamiya lacquer thinner works too, but the Mr Color Leveling Thinner performs better as it has some magic leveling compounds in it. I pretty much follow the Clipper method. A quick, thin tack coat followed by a nice, slowly applied, heavy wet coat. Let that level for a couple minutes, the flip it over and do the other side.
I confess, I have purchased some inexpensive spray kit, but haven't had the nerve even to try it yet I shall, shortly, and this info can only help.
Run for your life - there are stupid people everywhere!
Really nice job, Cedric.
REP on the way.
Very nice!
Excellent painting, Cedric!
I laugh in the face of danger - then I hide until it goes away!
Beautiful job.
Very crisp rendering Cedric.
Rob.
"Courage is the art of being the only one who knows you're scared to death."
They look great, Cedric!
REP!
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