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Thread: How to: my own bases

  1. #1

    Lightbulb How to: my own bases

    Hi there,

    since I find shipment costs (and the ever impending "taxes and duties" doom) too steep for my already very stressed and money-deprived bank account, I had to come up with a way to make my own bases instead of ordering the Orberst's ones.

    I have done quite a lot of them in the past month and I've "perfected" my system enough to show you how:

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    This is the raw material: we call it "plexiglass", others "acrylic". I get them from a shop that specialises in the things architects need to build their scale model buildings (yep, they still do that!).
    If the guy can cut them out of scrap, one base will cost 1€.
    If no scrap material is available, I have to pay for a sheet, about 15€ (for 10 bases).
    Generally, I'll just wait for him to have scrap...
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    he cuts them to the right size, but as you can see, the edges have been messed-up by the band-saw.
    So, let's sand them smooth.
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    This is after sanding with 180 grain.
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    400 grain
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    800
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    Then, polishing them with my trusted Dremel and some polishing paste.
    The topmost base has been polished already, not the other ones. I can see quite a difference...
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    There we are, all polished.
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    Now I cut out the paper templates I made (file below).
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    I position the template as precisely as possible on the base and drill a guiding hole where the first peg will be glued in.
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    I cut out the blue line and the arrow. I tear off the protective film of the base.
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    Using the hole I made earlier, I position the template and I paint the marks on the base.
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    Then I scribe the lines for the front (and if needed, any other) firing arc.
    No need for the template for the front arc, as you can use the small hole and the corners as guides.
    For other arcs, see the template.
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    I paint the groove I just scribed with the appropriate colour for the arc.
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    And clean whatever got out of the groove with either a Q-Tip of (better) using my nails.
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    Now I can drill a bigger hole that will accept the peg.
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    There's the peg. I glue the first peg to all my stands. This makes it easier to lift the figure during play: just grab it by the lowest peg...
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    I also draw a line on the edge of the base to help me locate the marks during play: no my parallax problem with this system.
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    There we are, the base with a plane on it...

    This is the template I use: WOW Bases.pdf Views: 3 Size: 4.5 KB">Template WOW Bases.pdf

    What I like:
    • The weight! I really like it when I can feel a little heft on my minis.
    • The price: three times nothing.
    • I made it myself... (yeah, I'm like that)

    What I like less:
    • The arrow and the blue line are just painted on. Paint doesn't hold on the plexy too well...
    • Sometimes, it's impossible to get rid of all the saw marks on the edges.


    That's it, hope you like it!


  2. #2

    Default

    Well done, Bilbo. There are no features to dislike. They look sturdy, they are decently thick - glass like and are usable. I can't picture myself making such things due to lack of skills of yours. Very nice "how to"!

  3. #3

    Default

    Excellent!
    Millions of years ago when I had a real job we cut the plex, ran it over a planer or sanded the edges on a belt sander, then deftly applied the flame of a torch to the edges. The flash heat made the edges super clear and glossy. But you need to be fast! In those days the plex came with brown paper protective covering on the flat sides which we left on until the torched edges were cool-that kept the flame from discoloring the flat sides. Very fast and nice finish! Your fine work took me back in time, but suddenly I have returned . . . Clipper

  4. #4

    Default

    I've made also bases from plexi. Because I didn't want to paint the arrow I scribed it also.

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  5. #5

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by clipper1801 View Post
    Excellent!
    Millions of years ago when I had a real job we cut the plex, ran it over a planer or sanded the edges on a belt sander, then deftly applied the flame of a torch to the edges. The flash heat made the edges super clear and glossy. But you need to be fast! In those days the plex came with brown paper protective covering on the flat sides which we left on until the torched edges were cool-that kept the flame from discoloring the flat sides. Very fast and nice finish! Your fine work took me back in time, but suddenly I have returned . . . Clipper
    I suppose a simple lighter won't do the trick?
    Cause I haven't got a blowtorch at hand...

    Sounds really neat and it would cut both time and work! Sanding... by hand! Pfffff!


  6. #6

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Thomatchef View Post
    I've made also bases from plexi. Because I didn't want to paint the arrow I scribed it also.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    I like yours too!


  7. #7

  8. #8

    Default

    ... and cheap!

  9. #9

    Default

    Good example of a very neat way to produce your bases Bilbo.
    About the only difference to mine is that I use an Electric Engraving tool to create the arrow and lines before colouring them.
    Daves tip on the edge prep is very interesting. I have been using a plane and then wet and dry paper followed by Brasso to get mine smooth. His method seems alot more straight forward. I must give it a try with my soldering torch.
    I bet one of those food browning torches that you see Chefs using would do the job too.
    Rob.

  10. #10

    Default

    Good work, Bilbo.

    I have to do the same for two Ju 52s...

  11. #11

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Marechallannes View Post
    Good work, Bilbo.

    I have to do the same for two Ju 52s...
    I've made them also for my Ju52's. I've took the dimensions of MAX Headroom his card.

    Click image for larger version. 

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  12. #12

    Default

    Looks very good,nice job



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